Pharrell Williams' first rodeo for Louis Vuitton is equal parts whimsy and Western
Pharrell Williams' 'third' rodeo for Louis Vuitton is equal parts whimsy and WesternWhen envisioning Old West towns, many conjure up images of desolate dirt streets strewn with tumbleweeds and dilapidated structures. However, Pharrell Williams transported his audience to a glitz-infused Old West city in Paris last night for his Louis Vuitton Autum Winter 2024 Menswear collection —a thematic departure from his debut spring 2024 show near Pont Neuf, Paris.
This is Pharrell's third collection for the French House. Drawing inspiration from his streetwear background, Virginia hometown and classic American Western ensembles, traditional cuts and shapes influenced everyday wardrobe staples like trucker, bomber, and biker jackets, as well as impeccable western-type suiting and flared jeans, all of which seemed a fitting choice given the House's limitless top-tier craftsmanship potential. While it definitely did not lack in showmanship or covetable items, the collection occasionally felt too literal and veered into costume territory. For instance, a white suit embroidered with cacti or fire-red leather trousers and biker jacket combo clad with LV logos and western motifs.
For die-hard Vuitton fans, Pharrell brought back the pixelated Damier print in puffer coats, suits, and its classic traveller trunks (which were wheeled onto the runway). Large 'LV' and 'Vuitton' emblems were also displayed on jackets and accessories. One standout piece was a hand-painted biker jacket with 'Vuitton Motel' emblazoned on the front, leaving one to wonder about the nature of such a motel.
Indeed, for a brand raking in €20 billion in annual revenues, maintaining a low-key approach is simply not on the table when it comes to sustaining a vibrant buzz. Another way, of course, is showcasing a myriad of details in craftsmanship (even if it means an overabundance of them within a single collection) to serve as a poignant reminder to customers of the brand's legacy, savoir faire, and its undisputed position at the top of the fashion hierarchy.
Take for example the colourful Dakota Flower embroideries on silk shirts and trousers or a Damier-textured powder-white long coat. Meanwhile, ornamental details borrowed from the cowboy lexicon were showcased in lavishly embroidered jackets, western shirts, suits, flared jeans, and cowboy trousers lined with fringe. In a more subdued fashion, sleek suiting and a Duster coat derived from originals worn in the Wild West allowed the designer to showcase the House's construction chops. Workhorse pieces like a sharply cut python-print square jacket, elevated truckers, and utilitarian pieces will surely be in high demand.
Not to be overlooked is the House's primary reason of existence: bags. The Speedy, a messenger, and a travel tote, also featured Dakota Flower embroidery. Some keep-all bags were hand-painted in the North Dakota Studio of Dee Jay Two Bears. The finishing touch? A collaboration with Timberland. Pharrell is a long-time fan of Timberlands, making the collaboration a no-brainer for those in the know. The limited-edition boots boast the Louis Vuitton monogram on a silhouette that is 15% larger than the original and is available in wheat and black colourways.
Pharrell's presentation was as much about the overall spirit as the clothes, reminding its followers that Louis Vuitton is more than a French brand a universal one embodying travel, music, and culture at large.
As the show concluded, Pharrell and his team took to the runway in his Human Made tees before welcoming a performance by the Native Voices of Resistance - a group of singers and performers from Native American nations - followed by Mumford & sons. See more looks from the show in the gallery below.
