Chemena Kamali, the German-born creative dynamo, certainly aced her inaugural collection for Chloé. The consensus among editors and buyers suggests a resurgence of the brand's golden era. Chloé was originally created by Gaby Aghion in 1952 and not many know about the brand's historical connection to the Middle East. Aghion was born into affuence in Alexandria, Egypt, in 1921. Her early exposure to French culture and fashion, nurtured through her family's status and her penchant for French fashion magazines, laid the groundwork for her pioneering vision.
Meanwhile, Kamali's journey at Chloé began over two decades ago as an intern under the tutelage of Phoebe Philo. She then ascended through the ranks, eventually bringing her talents to Saint Laurent before making a triumphant return to Chloé.
Kamali's debut collection paid homage to Chloé's signature elements, particularly the Bohemian charm and natural femininity that Karl Lagerfeld famously infused into the brand during the '70s. Kamali's vision for Chloé was a modern reimagining of this era, with an array of romantic blouses, airy chiffon dresses, and western-inspired details, all embodying a liberated womanhood.
Yet, amidst the ethereal ruffles and translucent fabrics, Kamali introduced a bolder, more structured dimension with high-shine leather pieces, adding a contemporary sharpness to the collection's romantic essence. This blend of soft and hard elements not only highlighted Kamali's adept craftsmanship but also underscored the evolving narrative of femininity that Chloé continues to tell.
In these challenging times, Rick Owens introduced a touch of softness at his latest show, held at his Parisian base in the 7th Arrondissement. The intimate salon-style setting, surrounded by the evocative art of Anselm Kiefer and Carol Rama and Owens' imposing sculptures, set the stage for a collection that offered a gentler perspective amidst the usual bold silhouettes. This season, Owens showcased shearlings and blanket-like wraps, contrasting his typically stark designs with a comforting contrast.
The show's hairstyles were a spectacle, with dramatic 'electrocuted' looks crafted by Duffy. Owens continued his creative partnership with London's Straytukay, unveiling inflatable boots enhanced with new ridged leather details. True to form, Owens' cultural flair was evident in his signature Perspex platforms and zip-embellished flares, marrying his avant-garde aesthetic with practical, earthy elements.
Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli is redefining the iconic brand and stayed away from front row celebrity antics of past seasons. The collection unveiled a refreshing approach to tailoring with a tweed suit, devoid of a shirt or bra, featuring high-waisted, generously cut trousers, signaling a more relaxed fashion ethos. This innovative spirit extended to unexpected pairings, like a corset with ultra-oversized pants, cinched with a bandana.
Roseberry's vision for statement outerwear merges Schiaparelli's humor and creativity with ease, evident in a navy peacoat with branded buttons and a whimsically quilted puffer jacket. The line also included stretch jersey dresses with trompe l’oeil effects and intricately beaded evening wear. Meanwhile, the eccessories, from high-top sneakers with molded toes to rhinestone-embellished 'S' shaped heels, underscored Schiaparelli's blend of the extraordinary with everyday reality.
