The first fashion event of 2024 has officially wrapped. The Men's Paris Fashion Week presented autumn/winter collections, with plenty of pared-back tailoring and an emphasis on wearability. For all its subdued silhouettes, though, there were pops of whimsy courtesy of Rick Owens, Pharrell Williams and LOEWE . Below, MOJEH wraps up the highlights from Men's Paris Fashion Week.
Country Roads, Take Me Home
Pharrell Williams' first autumn/winter collection for Louis Vuitton was a cacophony of inspirations; first, from William's hometown of Virginia, then traditional American workwear and, rather obviously, the Wild West. Cartoon cacti jostled for space alongside prints of horses, while embroidered denim, fringed chaps and leather jackets adorned with saddle-like embossing rounded out the offerings. The last source of inspiration, Pharrell Williams himself, was apparent in a Timbaland collaboration (a long-time staple for the musician-turned-designer) that saw the iconic boot transformed with the Maison's monogram.
Art of Style
Balmain made its return to Men's Fashion Week after a four-year hiatus and "orchestrated a buoyant mixture of tailored French silhouettes and colourful African patterns," according to the Maison. The collection is a maximalist's dream with plenty of crystal-covered garments and graphics of lips emblazoned across workwear, accessories and outerwear. The collection was partly influenced by the sapeur cultural movement originating from the Democratic Republic of Congo and pays homage to African patterns and artwork through beautifully bright pieces depicting the work of Ghanaian visual artist Prince Gyasi.
Back to the Future
Artistic director Nigo introduces the Kenzo Magic Galaxy guided by George Lucas' use of samurai films in sci-fi. The collection of menswear and womenswear is a cross-cultural exchange of Japanese tradition infused with sci-fi related uniforms. Think: kimono coats imbued with the lines of a warrior cape, dresses draped like cloaks and constellation prints inspired by traditional Edo Komon dot patterns of fifteenth century Japan.
A Night at the Ballet
Kim Jones introduced the Maison's first-ever men's couture collection during Paris Fashion Week showcasing 20 couture looks alongside 20 ready-to-wear pieces. The collection was "guided by the spirit of Rudolf Nureyev," according to the show notes, paying homage to the ballet dancer through a ready-to-wear collection of slim tailoring, shorts, wide-legged shorts suits, and ballet-pump-inspired shoes. The designer went all out for the couture, including Nureyev-inspired kimonos, beaded tunics, T-shirts, crocodile tops, and silver-embellished toile de jouy-patterned looks. And, of course, what better moment to flaunt diamonds from Dior’s haute joaillerie collection?
Prints Charming
Featuring collages of artist Richard Hawkins' works, LOEWE autumn/winter 2024 comprises of pieces affixed to one another as in a collage. Socks are attached to shoes and belts hang from trousers; elsewhere Richard Hawkins' technicolored collages bring pieces to life, feeding into the underground grunge aesthetic that evokes nostalgia for those of us of a certain age. Skate sneakers, relaxed trousers (albeit, made of leather) and knitwear meet structured outerwear and Jonathan Anderson's imagining of workwear that may well get you sent home from the office.
Don't Call It A Comeback
Pierpaolo Piccioli brought Valentino back to Men's Paris Fashion Week after four years off the calendar and marked the occasion with the comeback of classic shapes. Impeccable tailoring, wearable workwear and sleek, sophisticated fundamentals form the foundation of the collection, with the creative director's approach to gender fluidity remaining subtle and appearing through motifs borrowed from Valentino's recent womenswear collection. "There is a strength in softness and power in grace," shared the Maison. As for the palette, Piccioli bid adieu to his now-iconic shocking pink, opting instead for pops of colour by way of outerwear and accessories.
Out of Proportion
When Rick Owens' name enters conversation, it is typically not in a conversation about fashion's biggest introvert. For Paris Fashion Week, the American designer showcased an autumn/winter collection named after his hometown of Porterville, California; the event itself was staged in his Paris home. Porterville plays with proportions, presenting blown-out boots resembling balloons, puffer coats that extended above the head, and oversized coats that looked like knotted blankets. One thing is for certain for Rick Owens fans come winter 2024: you will be warm.
