In the build up to Alexis Mabille’s autumn/winter 2020 haute couture display, the designer offered glimpses of his latest collection on social media — teasing followers with bare silhouettes hung on rails, previewing details such as fabrics and adornments, and capturing ateliers mastering the finishing touches before revealing a bright fuchsia box; the stage for Mabille’s virtual couture presentation.
The haute couture collection revealed abstract motifs and an eclectic mix of colours, patterns and textures; from high-shine sparkle to ladylike lace and luxe velvet. “Unlike previous collections, fabrics were the starting point of my creative process,” said Alexis Mabille, who like most designers this season, utilised the fabrics that were already in the atelier due to the global lockdown, hence the experimental blend of upcycled materials which Mabille described as a “sustainable spirit” and “a very enriching experience.”
The collection, entitled “Attitude,” showcased an array of clashing prints, animal-patterned sequins and multi-hued feather flowers, but the statement looks were the meticulously crafted, sophisticated dresses that we can picture on the red carpet, at winter soirees or at fancy dinner parties of the future. There were grecian-esque silhouettes, a scalloped velvet bustier that fell beautifully across the back and several shoulder styles that dropped, ballooned and elegantly slipped across the arm — all in a rich palette of jewel-tones; dark sapphire, ruby, emerald, amethyst and citrine.
Although the world of eveningwear feels like a faraway thought, the sequence of stunning gowns reminded us that there is still a need to dress up — even if it’s simply to enjoy the exquisite “attitude” that comes with a glamorous gown or admire the mastery of couture draping, which Mabille excels at in this collection.
“More than ever, elegance and sensuality are the red thread woven throughout this collection, along with my long-held respect and love for the female form," says Mabille. "It’s my vision of an attitude, a call for optimism, an invitation to smile.” This autumn/winter 2020 collection does just that, it invites us to indulge in the art of craft, to admire it's beauty and to immerse ourselves in the joy it can bring: haute couture has its own attitude.