Surprise! Two months after his appointment as creative director of Valentino, Alessandro Michele unveils his first collection: Avant les Débuts. The Cruise 2025 collection was unveiled on the final day of Men's Milan Fashion Week (on the same day as the Gucci show, no less) and consists of a staggering 171 looks inspired by Valentino Garavani's legacy and the House's archives, hence the title which translates to 'before the beginning.'
The collection oozes an old-world opulence and is a masterclass in maximalism, with layered leopard prints, ruffled collars, fur cuffs, embroidery galore and an abundance of textures throughout. Interrupting the bygone-era glamour were hints of Alessandro's history at Gucci which perhaps he has yet to shake; streetwear-leaning baggy tees, hoodies and baseball caps are emblazoned with 'Chez Valentino,' as can be expected when hopping over from a House that stamped its logo on, well, everything. Old habits die hard.
The collection includes womenswear and menswear, allowing Alessandro to showcase his signature fluid approach to dressing. Male models wore green, closely tailored suiting that concealed ruffle-trimmed shirts underneath, as well as floral embroidery and knee-high broderie anglaise socks.
Accessories were the highlight of the collection, arriving in the form of pearl-embroidered gloves, silk bows, embroidered bags, strings of pearls and nature-inspired clips.
The creative director was originally scheduled to make his Valentino debut with the spring/summer 2025 womenswear collection.
