There's finally new blood in Milan thanks to a wave of fresh young talent hitting the stuffy shores of fashion's most conservative capital. This season was all about Massimo Giorgetti and his debut show at the house of Emilio Pucci.
By Christopher Prince
Alessandro Michele may have shaken up the lexicon of Gucci's sultry seductress, and Fausto Puglisi's breakout success almost certainly paved the path for new inductees onto the hallowed Milan show schedule, but all eyes were on Massimo Giorgetti this week as he attempted to move on from Peter Dundas' seven-year stint and start a new 'luxury-less' era at Emilio Pucci.
Giorgetti isn't fresh from the blocks however, his wildly successful line MSGM provided a much needed dose of cool-girl aesthetic to the city, which is something Pucci lacked under the helm of Dundas. One thing Pucci did provide was sexiness in spades, Giorgetti's show however couldn't have been more different.
Called 'Episode 1', the LVMH-owned show was set to a classical remix of The Strokes track 'Reptilia' which provided the backdrop for Giorgetti's new Pucci muse. But it wasn't all newness in mind, the designer chose three key sea-inspired Pucci silk scarves from the '50s and reiterated them into designs relevant for 2016.
Models walked in a series of loosely cut dresses garnished with sequins and striped skirt slits that evoked the 'urban mermaid' reference found on the show notes. Giorgetti cited a classic cockle shell motif found on one of the vintage scarves to mimic a laser cut knitwear version on a semi-sheer knit jumper. That same scarf reference was found in shoulder-baring dresses crafted from strips of silk sewn together.
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"I'm always asking about the reality of the customer and what women want," said Giorgetti backstage. "This new Emilio Pucci is more careful about this fact about what a woman desires." Adherence to the female form, a love of The Strokes and a movement away from the word luxury? This certainly is a new dawning in Milan.
