Meet the Designer Behind this Luxe Party Wear Label

5 min read
KALMANOVICH AW20

MOJEH meets the Moscow talent behind Moda Operandi’s shiniest Trunkshow

 

From one-shoulder silhouettes to high-shine fabrics, Kalmanovich’s autumn/winter 2020 collection is the answer to all your party dress dilemmas. Founded in 2009 by Russian designer Julia Kalmanovich, the Moscow-based ready-to-wear label offers sequin-adorned eveningwear season after season. The AW20 collection is no different, with elevated minidresses, statement balloon vs. bishop sleeves and a sparkling sell-out red gown made for soiree season. Featured on the Moda Operandi Trunkshow, the line of luxury party pieces is ready for trendsetters looking to shop ahead of time — as we talk to the designer behind the brand. 

What is your first memory of fashion?
While I was studying at Plekhanov Russian University of Economics I became interested in learning to sew. The inspiration I felt while visiting the fabric shop evoked a feeling in me that I could not ignore,  the different feel, textures and colours inspired me to create and this is when I decided I wanted to become a designer.

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

Where did you learn your craft?
Designing comes naturally to me but I learned to bring what was in my head to fruition at the School of Slava Zaitsev.

Why did you choose to work with eveningwear?
There was a desire to bring pieces to the market that I had not been seeing. When you have a special event you want to feel unique and confident in how you dress. I wasn’t able to find pieces that made me feel this way – so I created them myself! Also, who doesn’t love a party?

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

Tell us about the AW20 collection.
Strong and confident women always inspire my collections. This collection was no different.

Did you have a particular muse in mind?
The Kalmanovich woman is exuberant and not afraid of taking risks. Diana Ross emulates these qualities and that is why she was my biggest muse for the autumn/winter 2020 collection. Her style enhanced the power she brought to the stage and is the exact power I want everyone wearing my designs to feel.

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

What materials did you choose to work with and why?
For the AW20 collection I chose to work with materials that are over the top and stand out in a crowd. In my design process I let the fabric inspire me and then silhouettes follow.  When doing research on my inspiration I was very drawn to the exquisite fabrics worn by Diana Ross on and off stage.

How does this collection differ from previous seasons?
In this collection I incorporated more separate pieces that can be worn interchangeably. I think it is important to offer women versatility in their wardrobe.

Kalmanovich

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

What are the pieces you revisit season after season?
Cut outs, an over exaggerated sleeve, and the mini dress are all Kalmanovich staples.

How do you think the AW20 collection appeals to the Middle Eastern market?
The Middle Eastern market is always seeking what is next in fashion. Kalmanovich offers them unique design, quality fabrics and an excellent fit. I have expanded my range of gowns and have also added more separates to the mix, which speaks to their sophisticated sensibilities.

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

Why did you decide to feature the collection on the Moda Operandi Trunkshow?
Moda Operandi has been a big supporter since the beginning of my career. They have seamlessly broken the mold for traditional ecommerce. I think it is important for the complete collections to be offered on a platform.

How important is it to have a platform that makes your label internationally accessible?
As a Russian designer it is important for me to expose Russian design to the global market that Moda Operandi reaches. My collection is most popular in the Middle East.

Kalmanovich

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

Do you find there’s a big demand to preorder next season’s style?
Preordering current collections that are on the runway makes people feel more involved with the collection and offers buyers something to look forward to.

Which pieces from the AW20 collection have been the most popular so far?
The gold tops and the red sequin gowns.

Kalmanovich

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

You have a cult celebrity following, how does it feel when someone like Hailey Bieber wears one of your designs?
I am a huge fan of Hailey Bieber’s style – I admire her stylist Maeve Reilly because she always has her looking flawless head to toe.  It is an amazing feeling seeing today’s fashion tastemakers wear my designs.

Kalmanovich

KALMANOVICH at MODA OPERANDI

What has been your career highlight to date?
Confidence in myself has been the biggest highlight of my career. As a designer you are pouring your heart and soul into a collection and then putting it into the world for everyone to see. Having confidence in myself even through the difficult moments has made me stronger as a person.

How would you describe your personal style?
My personal style has evolved in the past few years. Before having my son I only wore dresses and had a very feminine style. During my pregnancy I started incorporating more sporty pieces into my wardrobe. I think this evolution in my personal style is evident through my collections.

What’s next for Kalmanovich?
We have something special in the works for SS21…

THE LBD EDIT

Shop Kalmanovich’s next season looks, now at the Moda Operandi Trunkshow; Modaoperandi.com