Moroccon born Said Mahrouf has travelled a unique journey through the world of fashion. From costume designer in the performing arts, to starting his own performance company, the composiTe foundation, in Amsterdam in 2000 and finding success at Paris’ Prêt-à-Porter Salon with his namesake ready-to-wear collection in 2008, Mahrouf’s creativity has found many outlets. At Fashion Forward Season 5, Casablanca-based Mahrouf’s elegant draping and simple silhouettes made an understated impact in colour blocked primary tones. MOJEH.com steps into the designer’s world to find out more.
By Natalie Trevis
Said Mahrouf AW15 at Fashion Forward Season 5.
An ethereal vision of Morocco. Image courtesy of Said Mahrouf, photography by Lamia Lahbabi.
On the inspiring image above:
The image is styled by Louis Philippe de Gagoue and it reflects beautifully how modern life and tradition within Morocco are intertwined. I am however mainly interested in the modern side of Morocco. I decided to base my label in the metropolis of Morocco, Casablanca, four years ago. Subconsciously Casablanca has been an inspiration for quite some time now.
On his design aesthetic:
I would describe it as minimalist elegance.
On Fashion Forward Season 5:
After having some success and recognition in Morocco it is only logical for me to focus on the other Arab countries where I feel fashion is booming. There is great interest in local designers and room for new regional brands. Fashion Forward has proven to be the ideal platform to introduce my brand to the Middle East. It has made my brand in Morocco more desirable and opened up new business in other Arab counties.
On being a designer in the Middle East:
What I really loved about being in Dubai for Fashion Forward is that the people wear the clothes directly from the runway. People dare to dress up and celebrate fashion. I honestly have never seen anything like this in other parts of the world where I have presented my work before.
Said Mahrouf at Fashion Forward Season 5. Image courtesy of Getty Images.
On the challenges for emerging designers:
When you introduce your brand for the first time it is always hard. I participated in Season 3 of Fashion Forward and skipped Season 4. Showing again during Season 5 I felt that I had to reintroduce myself. It is really important to be consistent and show the strength of your brand to get buyers interested in the long run.
On the woman who wears Said Mahrouf:
My clients are women who are independent, refined, open and curious and interested in culture in general. What is interesting to me is that my brand speaks to very young women as well as mature women. Our designs surpass age and that is an important factor in our design process.
On the journey through the worlds of art, performance and costume design:
In the beginning of my career I was more interested in researching what clothes can express beside the functions of comfort and wearability, etc. I did that through creating site specific performances where we researched the special relation between the human body and space through costumes. The fashion aspect was in the design of these clothes. I had full freedom to create clothes with zero boundaries – the possibilities were endless. Now I design and make clothes that have to be worn in everyday life; a new challenge that I enjoy immensely.
Said Mahrouf, AW15.
On the meaning of fashion:
From a young age as far as I can remember I was always drawing women and clothes. My introduction to fashion was through music videos. I only really started to pay attention to established designers at the Rietveld Art Academy in Amsterdam where I studied fashion design. The very first time I was really struck by fashion and what it could mean is when I saw the spring/summer 1998 collection, Between, by Hussein Chalayan. I will never forget the image of the models wearing the black chadors of varying lengths and nothing else.
On influences:
The academy where I studied has really marked me. We were never really taught how to sew, but the emphasis on conceptual thinking has helped me through my design process to this day.
On the future:
My recent AW15 collection, Suprematism, is part of a design exhibition, Africa Design Days in Villa des Arts in Casablanca from 21 May until 19 July. We are also now working on the new collection that we will present at Fashion Forward Season 6 in October.
