If Olivier Rousteing’s ‘Balmain Army’ consists of glamorous reality TV stars, then Anthony Vaccarello’s vision for the Saint Laurent girl is an alternative league; daughters of rock ‘n’ roll legends, powerful businesswomen and heiresses.
You might find the notion of an heiress sporting one of those skimpy leather skirts mind-blogging but much like Alessandro Michele’s new energy at Gucci and Demna Gvasalia’s work at both Balenciaga and Vetements, that’s causing merchandise to fly off the shelves, it’s a new mood for a new client while staying true to the past.
This intimate homage to the brand’s founder was best witnessed in a velveteen evening dress that bore floral embroidery from one of the last works commissioned by Yves himself through the iconic Maison Lesage. Elsewhere in the collection, a notion of retro-power dressing was ablaze with some models sporting deconstructed shoulder details akin to the armour worn by gladiators.
This notion of heritage elements intricately woven into contemporary silhouettes has been demonstrated by many a designer, however in the task appointed to Mr. Vaccarello to surpass his predecessor’s acclaimed aesthetic, he has succeeded in swiftly combining both, to create a product that is not only commercially viable to the women of today but a celebration of Yves Saint Laurent’s past.
