Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson stands out for placing his fashion in a context, whether that be physical, environmental or political. Towards the end of today’s presentation, he explained the inspiration behind his quirky runway, saying that he wanted to push boundaries. Well, Jonathan, you did.
The 170-year-old Spanish luxury label’s spring/summer 2017 collection is hard to define – the unusual and futuristic fabrics used are a bit space-agey, while the style harks back to the edgy Eighties. Plastic-wrap trousers, PVC and injection-mold synthetics showcase Anderson’s intellectual approach and ability in regard to design.
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From a patchwork lab coat to paint splattered skirts, conventional femininity was created with exaggerated silhouettes, elongated balloon sleeves and box-waist belts.
Classically sculpted gold cuffs featuring leather Calla lilies were worn with ceramic bat necklaces. It’s a far cry from last season’s mature tweed suits, deep fringing and traditional leather bags. But whether you love it or hate it, under Anderson’s direction the brand has flourished and MOJEH doesn’t see any signs of Loewe slowing down.