Anthony Vaccarello’s work has always been provocative; artfully constructed plunging necklines and moulded bustier tops highlight his power as a master of construction for his namesake label. For his runway debut as the new creative director at Saint Laurent it seems the designer is staying true to the brand’s recently revamped ethos while subtly bringing life to forgotten elements of the famed French Maison. Let us elaborate.
As models walked through the aged halls of the Ministère Éducation Nationale last night - an old abandoned structure in the heart of Paris and currently being rebuilt as the label's new headquarters - Hedi Slimane’s DNA was evident through the rockabilly attitude, the puffed 80s shoulders and the ultra-short hemlines that made up most of the show - all intentional moves from Vaccarello of course. But, there was traditional Yves in there too such as the leather mutton-sleeve dress opening the show and each of the all gold gowns that followed, all homages to the label's founder.
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A new designer means a fresh start. However Vaccarello is definitely a man that understands the power of the glamour that was prevalent in the work of his predecessors such as Stefano Pilati and especially Hedi Slimane, who's final calling at the house was its most glamorous in years. This was most evident in the reflective sheen of a gold lamé dress complete with power shoulders, ankle booties, a draped hem of appropriate proportions all sported by a model with a Grace Jones-esque buzz-cut, impressive? We think so.
