By Jemma Walker
With an abundance of sequins, daring sheer lace and satin, the new creative head at Nina Ricci delivers dresses and subtle two-pieces that are made for the party season.
The debut collection from creative director Guillaume Henry strips the Nina Ricci brand bare and rebuilds its foundations with uncomplicated-yet-classic designs in a soft camel, navy and white palette. This impressive refocus, which clearly moves away from girlish territory into a more experienced womanly domain, crafts a complete silhouette for the brand and, dare we say it, delivers an even more desirable effect than ever before. The real finesse and feminine elements of his autumn/winter collection emerge from a mix of materials and detail that are dedicated to each and every look. And, with each look revealing a little more of Henry’s inner philosophy, you can't take your eyes off the catwalk for a second (the models portrayed themselves classically, too, with their untouched locks tucked gently into their coats). It seems that 'true timelessness' is the new perspective for the Nina Ricci woman.
Although there is a host of feminine outerwear, très chic long trousers and skirts offered French panache aplenty, with the showstoppers undoubtedly being the evening dresses. Dripping with modern elegance, these mid-length dresses achieved new heights of sexiness without exercising flashes of flesh. One piece breaks the rule entirely (pictured below) in that we couldn’t be more obsessed with the attention to detail of its delicate sheer lace. The model’s bare chest and black underwear beneath, meanwhile, goes completely unnoticed thanks to the ultra-delicate design, which in itself speaks volumes about Nina Ricci’s new found personality.
As if lace wasn’t detailed enough, Henry takes a step further and experiments with sequins galore. A bold red sequined dress teamed with white pointed pumps is just one of the shimmering shades engrained in our minds during the show, and with sister designs including a silver sequin two-piece disguised as a romantic gown by seamless joins, there’s a sparkly shade on offer for everyone. The maxim on the catwalk is simple: glamour is no longer an 'over-the-top extravagance', and the evening attire only confirms it. Camel tones are the evening alternative to the LBD thanks to a clever combination of fur, patchwork and mixed materials – who would have thought natural shades could have such an impact?
Caught up in the simple navy slips decorated with fluttering material is a timless feminine charm, pure and simple. Indeed, this is an excellent start for the 36-year-old Henry. Later, as he ran down the runway to bring a close to the evening, he wasn’t the only one smiling.
