The week is proving to be pivotal for designers who are debuting at big name brands. First Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent and now Bouchra Jarrar’s first runway show for Lanvin. Pressure to serve justice to the creatives who’ve graced the runways before them, as well as to stay true to their respective house codes, is mounting. We look to the delicate details from Lanvin’s spring/summer 17 show to examine exactly how Bouchra Jarrar has managed to capture the very essence of Jeanne Lanvin in a feminine collection that’s all about a new age elegance.
Collars
Alber Elbaz used to perfectly combine the androgyny of a man’s suit with the femininity of a woman’s silhouette in the effortless draping of satin collars. Here Bouchra brought her own spin to the table by incorporating delicate collars with silk-satin finishes into languid pyjama suits, as well as supple leather on moto-vests embroidered with ostrich plumes. This combination of contrasts jumps between leather, feathers and silhouette, which ties in beautifully with Jeanne Lanvin’s training as a milliner.
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Movement
From the ruffle of a dress to the draping that knotted a floor-length evening gown in white, every time a model turned the garment moved with her. Neither restraining nor constricting: A perfect understanding of the female form and how to complement it. Bouchra also made note to include versatility in the collection through trousers and jackets that incorporate the same movement.
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Pleats
Elbaz’s version of romanticism is envisioned best through his dresses that incorporate pleating in a variety of forms. Here, Bouchra Jarrar incorporates the former director’s love of pleats, as well as its founder’s love of finely compressed folds, through chiffon skirts that billowed across the ankles of the girls.
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Our top six looks encompassed all these elements and more to form a new generation for the Lanvin woman, which – helmed by Bouchra – is sure to see a revival of sorts.
