It was a case of the breton battle from two sister labels as Max Mara and Sportmax looked to the high seas for spring/summer 2016. But who came out on top?
While every other designer has been stuck on a decade play this past fashion month it was a surprise to see two staple Milanese Houses propose collections inspired by the high seas. For Max Mara's creative director Ian Griffiths - and in celebration of the House's 65-year tenure - that translated to a decidedly classic affair of finely tuned attire that wouldn't look out of place on a luxury cruise liner. Under Max Mara's 23-collection umbrella, its little sister Sportmax proprosed a similar aesthetic, only more youthful in its approach.
The Breton Shirt
A staple of sailor attire, the breton shirt was Max Mara's point of reference, and it appeared in the show's opening look in classic navy and blue paired with double-breasted tailoring. Sportmax meanwhile played with dimension, and conjured a colour block stripe motif, pairing the traditional navy hue with vibrant orange (perfectly on trend for the spring/summer 2016 season).
Winner: Max Mara
Both collections looked to palette cleansing white in their ocean discovery. Sportmax's L.W.D (little white dress) was unfussy and casual, belted high at the waist and paired with laid-back sandals. On the other hand Max Mara went down a more traditional route, offering a neatly-nipped white pantsuit that mimicked performance wear with a sporty drawstring waist and gold hardware that peppered side pockets.
Winner: Sportmax
Beach Paraphernalia
An exploration on the seas also garnered a reference to creatures that lived below it, which is where Max Mara journeyed to in skirts crafted from metallic tinsel that offered an easy day-night outfit transition. The tinsel riffed on the tendrils of sea amoeba, and when in motion, gave the effect of a shoal of fish swimming from one water to the next. Over at Sportmax the effect was less romantic and more graphically inclined with garments treated with a trompe l'oeil fishing net print.
Winner: Max Mara
All Tied Up
Max Mara went all-out in their proposal of the statement print this season by covering looks in head-to-toe rope motifs complete with rope pull ties. It was slightly more subtle at Sportmax, where a reference to shackles were on the print agenda, piping the shirt and skirt hems in contrast white.
Winner: Sportmax