Mojeh

On High Seas: Max Mara vs. Sportmax

Sep 26, 2015 | 3 min read

It was a case of the breton battle from two sister Milanese labels. But who came out on top?

It was a case of the breton battle from two sister labels as Max Mara and Sportmax looked to the high seas for spring/summer 2016. But who came out on top?

While every other designer has been stuck on a decade play this past fashion month it was a surprise to see two staple Milanese Houses propose collections inspired by the high seas. For Max Mara's creative director Ian Griffiths - and in celebration of the House's 65-year tenure - that translated to a decidedly classic affair of finely tuned attire that wouldn't look out of place on a luxury cruise liner. Under Max Mara's 23-collection umbrella, its little sister Sportmax proprosed a similar aesthetic, only more youthful in its approach.

The Breton Shirt

Max Mara | Sportmax

A staple of sailor attire, the breton shirt was Max Mara's point of reference, and it appeared in the show's opening look in classic navy and blue paired with double-breasted tailoring. Sportmax meanwhile played with dimension, and conjured a colour block stripe motif, pairing the traditional navy hue with vibrant orange (perfectly on trend for the spring/summer 2016 season).

Winner: Max Mara

Maritime White

Max Mara | Sportmax

Both collections looked to palette cleansing white in their ocean discovery. Sportmax's L.W.D (little white dress) was unfussy and casual, belted high at the waist and paired with laid-back sandals. On the other hand Max Mara went down a more traditional route, offering a neatly-nipped white pantsuit that mimicked performance wear with a sporty drawstring waist and gold hardware that peppered side pockets.

Winner: Sportmax

Beach Paraphernalia

Max Mara | Sportmax

An exploration on the seas also garnered a reference to creatures that lived below it, which is where Max Mara journeyed to in skirts crafted from metallic tinsel that offered an easy day-night outfit transition. The tinsel riffed on the tendrils of sea amoeba, and when in motion, gave the effect of a shoal of fish swimming from one water to the next. Over at Sportmax the effect was less romantic and more graphically inclined with garments treated with a trompe l'oeil fishing net print.

Winner: Max Mara

All Tied Up

Max Mara | Sportmax

Max Mara went all-out in their proposal of the statement print this season by covering looks in head-to-toe rope motifs complete with rope pull ties. It was slightly more subtle at Sportmax, where a reference to shackles were on the print agenda, piping the shirt and skirt hems in contrast white.

Winner: Sportmax