Deeply embedded in the collective style psyche as a shorthand for both feminine and femme, hot pink has emerged as the most joyous colour of the season, and for very good reason
Pantone said that 2022 would be the year of periwinkle, a soft, soothing hue that lies somewhere between blue and violet — but it seems that they couldn’t have been more wrong, at least where fashion is concerned. Blame Margot Robbie and the re-emergence of Barbiecore — Greta Gerwig’s much-anticipated film on the iconic fashion doll line is currently in production — or perhaps we’re all just craving a little in-your-face and frivolous fun, but designers wanted bold, brazen and bright for the new season, and they most certainly brought the goods.
“Hot pink is back on the fashion cards for AW22,” Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns Fashion tells MOJEH. “After the past few years of pandemic dressing, the resurgence of pink comes hand-in-hand with an optimistic outlook on fashion for the future. High-octane party dressing and the Barbiecore aesthetic exudes confidence and is the welcome injection of fun that we all need!” From fluorescent pink to fuchsia, right into magenta, we saw flashes of the shade make an appearance in the Spring/ Summer collections — see Alexander McQueen, Dior and Versace. Come Autumn/Winter, however, and punchy pink hues were out in full force, particularly at Valentino where Pierpaolo Piccioli made a bold fashion statement with an almost entirely pink collection complete with a huge 48 fuchsia looks. So much so did he love this effervescent hue that he even gave it a name — Pink PP. There were sculpted off-the- shoulder looks teamed with slinky gloves, boiler suits, feathers, ruffled floor-sweeping shirts and a spectacular finale gown worn by Kristen McMenamy which stole the show.
In other words, you can’t even start your journey into all- pink-everything without considering this collection. “We’ve always seen our customer resonate with shades of pink, even before the Valentino show,” adds Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at MATCHESFASHION. “It is such a warm, strong energy colour — it’s great styled with shades of green and can be worn in a super feminine way or a tougher way.” The likes of Emilia Wickstead, Michael Kors, Lanvin, Dolce & Gabbana, Loewe, Molly Goddard and Richard Quinn were quick to follow suit — the latter three commanding attention with voluminous gowns perfect for awards season. Jonathan Anderson added the fun factor at Loewe with a hot pink dress complete with lip bodice, while Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went one step further by teaming statement fuchsia separates with pink tones that really packed a punch. Donatella got the pink memo too — the Versace catwalk was alive with pops of pink on silky corsets and boned dresses. “Then there’s Taller Marmo’s deep pink fur-lined minidress, Frankie Shop’s neon tailored two piece which Browns created exclusively with the brand, Blumarine’s separates in a softer pastel take and, finally, Alaïa’s pink crochet skater dress which is a personal favourite of mine,” adds Gramston.
A sometimes-controversial hue linked to the so-called gentler sex — the link between pink and girls started in the Victorian era and remains strong to this day — 2022’s pink brings a much-needed sense of escapism and positivity to our new season wardrobes. Yet if you err on the minimalist side, you can still work the trend without breaking free of your aesthetic. “Buy into a simple T-shirt or cashmere sweater paired with denim, cargo pants or a neutral skirt, like the Bottega tee which provides a pop of colour in a sea of cleaner denim and neutral cottons,” advises Wiggins. Gabriela Hearst’s sweater is great for this too, as is the way Molly Goddard cleverly used the hue in her collection with her signature tulle for a very modern approach to hot pink. Wiggins also points to pink for brides as an alternative to the traditional white gown. “Brides are often looking for a shade to wear which will still be feminine and make them feel good but offers an alternative to a big white dress,” she says. “Or you can even buy into pink homeware if you don’t want to wear it!”
Still not convinced? Perhaps the season’s obsession with pink eye makeup could be your transition into the trend — be sure to opt for a grungier, lived-in style like a bold fuchsia blown-out smokey eye that looks at its best after a couple of hours wear to stay current for the season. “Even though it can be seen as novelty and too specific as a pop colour, I love how wearing hot pink uplifts how you feel,” agrees Wiggins. “It looks so good on a variety of different skin tones and body shapes — it basically works for everyone.” We’re sold.