The pre-fall 2019 collections are here to bridge the gap between seasons. As these collections remain on the shop floor longer than any other, it’s worth taking note. Here is our crop of the best trends. Some new, and some a fresh take on an old favourite…
At Rosetta Getty prominent citrus shades in yellow and orange livened up the collection. Bias cut satin gowns, and camisoles were layered with textured, cropped sweaters in a colourful display of proportion play. Stella McCartney was directly inspired by Yellow Submarine’s visuals, but as always, her take is as modern, desirable and wearable as ever. A knife-pleat blood orange cape or a yellow fringed sweater and skirt combo. Using camel as their mainstay, Max Mara also steered towards rusty palettes and Temperley London’s bohemian eveningwear went deeper into the dark red colour spectrum. Sunset hues are the bind between season’s – colourful enough for late summer but essentially autumn, too.
Pre-fall florals are juxtaposed with texture, tailoring and even plaid, to play down the romance and darken the mood. Julien Dossena’s winning streak continued at Paco Rabanne this season. Wallpaper prints and roses with embroidered regiment jackets and western shirts proved a look to love. At Valentino, florals took on down jackets – a collaboration with Moncler – and beanie hats, but of course it was the maxi floral prints that drenched occasionwear that really won us over. Pierpaolo Piccioli knows how to appeal to romantic in all of us, even if the mood was darker. Louis Vuitton showcased pre-fall florals in a look book this season, photographed by Collier Schorr, in which actress Lea Seydoux looked a vision in a floral print sheath with plunging neckline, other floral looks were layered with plaid.
Amongst all the furore, folk-references, frills and fanciness of pre-fall 19, the simplicity of impeccable tailoring wove its was through collections like a cool breeze. Alexander McQueen’s pre-fall collection drew on the industrial north of England. Suiting reminiscent of 1950s Teddy Girls, sturdy fabrics, peg-leg trousers and jackets with trompe l’oeil double lapels all sharp – it was a confident line up. Dior’s suiting was reinvented with culottes and belted jackets, and at Burberry, leather piping outlined beige suits. Everyone should have at least one incredible suit in their wardrobe.
THE MIDAS TOUCH
Chanel’s Metiers d’Art Egyptian-inspired show took place at the incredible Temple of Dendur at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Subtle golds and metallic threads appeared in boucle jackets and co-ords. While bright gold suiting, over-the-knee boots, hats, knitwear and bejewelled dresses offered a bolder take on metallics. It was opulent and over-the-top in the best possible way – credit to the workmanship involved in manipulating the fabrics and creating gloss on each and every look. Dior pre-fall also showed off Chiuri’s passion for technique with a Seventies-infused collection that saw the most beautiful sheer maxi dresses in a glitter-dusted fabric layered over ribbed roll-necks.
- Compiled by Elaine Lloyd-Jones