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PFW: March 5th

March 06th 2017

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Céline: Phoebe Philo's autumn/winter collection for Céline contained a plethora of business-savvy outfit options in a muted monochrome palette punctuated with shades of khaki, maroon and sky blue. Structured coats with cocoon-like sleeves and wide lapels were softened with printed bow sashes and oversized scarves in fuzzy fabrics were draped over arms, injecting a bold pop of colour.
Céline: Proportion was carefully considered with slimline stirrup trousers counterbalanced voluminous oversized trench coats. As always, accessories were a key part of the collection, slick ankle boots of varying heel heights featured in cream and gold, while a bigger is better aesthetic was applied to bags with oversized totes and shoulder bags accompanying the models down the runway.
Balenciaga: 'Modern sophistication' was the catchphrase at Balenciaga where Demna Gvasalia took inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga's old lookbooks. What materialised was a collection peppered with oversized coats fastened on the shoulder and sleek pencil skirts paired with coloured stocking boots and oversized totes.
Balenciaga: The final nine looks of the show were in fact couture dresses, that celebrated the house's 100th anniversary. Inspired by Fifties designs created by Cristóbal, Gvasalia modernised them by pairing with matching oversized Bazaar bags.
John Galliano: This season Bill Gaytten crafted a well-curated collection for the house of John Galliano. Referencing the Forties, Gaytten sent out sharply cut peacoats in velvet and wool and whimsical dresses and gowns in fluid fabrics. Draping featured heavily, which worked to draw the eye and emphasise movement.
Valentino: At Valentino, flights of fancy merged with Victoriana resulting in fairytale gowns and dresses. Lengthy dresses and highnecked collars felt both pretty and polished while soft fabrics and delicate lace brought a gentle femininity to the silhouettes. Lace up boots further communicated the Victoriana vibe.
Valentino: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection featured sorbet shades, vibrant reds, black and florals as well as surrealist prints of hands and abstract squiggles. Embellishment in the form of sequins, appliqué flowers and plissé pleating added extra dimension and points of interest to outfits

From Valentino’s Victorian-inspired collection to Céline’s structured silhouettes, we cast a sartorial eye over yesterday’s key shows at Paris Fashion Week.

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