MFW SS18: The Round Up

With Gucci's Eighties-heavy collection kicking off Milan Fashion Week (MFW) on wednesday and Donatella Versace's triumphant tribute to her late brother (not to mention the return of the super squad) setting the weekend in motion, we highlight and summarise the key shows from MFW so far.

Bally: Retro glam and subtle femininity were the two key themes evident in Bally’s 10 look spring/summer18 presentation. There was a hint of vintage Wes Anderson to the dusty pink fur coats and ponchos which contrasted nicely against the sleek tan leather coats and shearling jackets.

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Bally: Retro glam and subtle femininity were the two key themes evident in Bally’s 10 look spring/summer18 presentation. There was a hint of vintage Wes Anderson to the dusty pink fur coats and ponchos which contrasted nicely against the sleek tan leather coats and shearling jackets.

Francesco Scognamiglio: There was a lot to take in at Francesco Scognamiglio, whose collection was caught somewhere between romance and the Eighties. Soft pink and sheer white dresses opened the show before giving way to floral print bomber jackets and lace-trimmed boxer shorts before finishing with foil-like metallic pieces that rounded out the collection.

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Francesco Scognamiglio: There was a lot to take in at Francesco Scognamiglio, whose collection was caught somewhere between romance and the Eighties. Soft pink and sheer white dresses opened the show before giving way to floral print bomber jackets and lace-trimmed boxer shorts before finishing with foil-like metallic pieces that rounded out the collection.

Blumarine: Soft pastel shades, pretty floral prints and the sheerest of fabrics set the tone at Blumarine where it was all about uncomplicated and uninhibited summer dressing.

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Blumarine: Soft pastel shades, pretty floral prints and the sheerest of fabrics set the tone at Blumarine where it was all about uncomplicated and uninhibited summer dressing.

Fendi: Triangulation threaded its way through Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi’s collection where flared skirts, structured shoulders and angular stripes all echoed the shape.

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Fendi: Triangulation threaded its way through Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi’s collection where flared skirts, structured shoulders and angular stripes all echoed the shape.

No. 21: Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s latest showing for No.21 was one of his strongest yet. The designer created an edgy uptown vibe with embellished pencil skirts, slinky slip dresses and preppy button up shirts which he punctuated with slightly sportier looks.

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No. 21: Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s latest showing for No.21 was one of his strongest yet. The designer created an edgy uptown vibe with embellished pencil skirts, slinky slip dresses and preppy button up shirts which he punctuated with slightly sportier looks.

Gucci: Alessandro Michele continued his love affair with days of old sending out a collection heavy with Eighties references. Lurid colours, power shoulders, miniskirts and heavy dustings of sequins pushed the agenda as did the heavy smatterings of accessories accompanying each look.

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Gucci: Alessandro Michele continued his love affair with days of old sending out a collection heavy with Eighties references. Lurid colours, power shoulders, miniskirts and heavy dustings of sequins pushed the agenda as did the heavy smatterings of accessories accompanying each look.

Missoni: Angela Missoni’s collection felt decidedly upbeat with a mélange of bold colours creating a jovial atmosphere. The sheer dresses and skirts beckoned to late night party goers while the patterned knits and cardigans will make for valuable transitional pieces.

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Missoni: Angela Missoni’s collection felt decidedly upbeat with a mélange of bold colours creating a jovial atmosphere. The sheer dresses and skirts beckoned to late night party goers while the patterned knits and cardigans will make for valuable transitional pieces.

Giorgio Armani: Giorgio Armani worked with a spectrum of neon hues this season cleverly subduing by mixing them into black garments and ensembles. Shots of pink, blue, red and green had impact but weren’t overwhelming thanks to the black trousers and skirts they were sent out with.

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Giorgio Armani: Giorgio Armani worked with a spectrum of neon hues this season cleverly subduing by mixing them into black garments and ensembles. Shots of pink, blue, red and green had impact but weren’t overwhelming thanks to the black trousers and skirts they were sent out with.

Fausto Puglisi: It was back to basics at Fausto Puglisi where lace, gentle ruffles and fringing formed the collection’s riff which was strengthened by fresh shades of white and blush pink.

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Fausto Puglisi: It was back to basics at Fausto Puglisi where lace, gentle ruffles and fringing formed the collection’s riff which was strengthened by fresh shades of white and blush pink.

Max Mara: Sleek, no-nonsense clean lines brought polished modernity to Ian Griffith’s spring/summer collection for Max Mara. Griffith’s clothes offer practicality and sophistication as well as the ability to transition from the boardroom to the bar – a must for today’s busy working woman.

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Max Mara: Sleek, no-nonsense clean lines brought polished modernity to Ian Griffith’s spring/summer collection for Max Mara. Griffith’s clothes offer practicality and sophistication as well as the ability to transition from the boardroom to the bar – a must for today’s busy working woman.

Moschino: You’ve got to love Jeremy Scott; the American designer’s optimism knows no bounds – which is a welcome trait in today’s world. The designer started off with a combination of pretty and punk where full tutu skirts were worn with leather biker jackets and boots before going full bloom with the most incredible animated floral gowns and dresses that lit up his runway and the faces of his showgoers.

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Moschino: You’ve got to love Jeremy Scott; the American designer’s optimism knows no bounds – which is a welcome trait in today’s world. The designer started off with a combination of pretty and punk where full tutu skirts were worn with leather biker jackets and boots before going full bloom with the most incredible animated floral gowns and dresses that lit up his runway and the faces of his showgoers.

Emilio Pucci: The House of Emilio Pucci is currently in flux. After the departure of Massimo Giorgetti in April, the Italian institution has yet to appoint a replacement. Therefore, it came as no surprise that the transitional design team went back to the brand’s fundamentals this season. Swirling prints, terrycloth robes, caftans and dresses are sure-fire hits for jet-set socialites and celebrities next summer.

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Emilio Pucci: The House of Emilio Pucci is currently in flux. After the departure of Massimo Giorgetti in April, the Italian institution has yet to appoint a replacement. Therefore, it came as no surprise that the transitional design team went back to the brand’s fundamentals this season. Swirling prints, terrycloth robes, caftans and dresses are sure-fire hits for jet-set socialites and celebrities next summer.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini: Eighties icon Tina Chow had a heavy influence on Lorenzo Serafini’s Philosophy collection this season which was evident in the effortless neckerchiefs, paper bag waists and billowing blouses that came down the runway.

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini: Eighties icon Tina Chow had a heavy influence on Lorenzo Serafini’s Philosophy collection this season which was evident in the effortless neckerchiefs, paper bag waists and billowing blouses that came down the runway.

Tod’s: There’s a timeless effortlessness that’s become synonymous with the Tod’s brand that was evident for all to see in their latest show. An ode to Italian summers, the collection consisted of super chic shorts, cropped parkas and shirt dresses cut from leather and cotton. Incredibly wearable and elegant these are definitely buy now, wear forever pieces.

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Tod’s: There’s a timeless effortlessness that’s become synonymous with the Tod’s brand that was evident for all to see in their latest show. An ode to Italian summers, the collection consisted of super chic shorts, cropped parkas and shirt dresses cut from leather and cotton. Incredibly wearable and elegant these are definitely buy now, wear forever pieces.

Antonio Marras: Mr. Marras played to his strengths, mixing prints and mediums for Spring 2018. Beautiful maxi dresses with plisse pleats came down the runway alongside, parkas, lace skirts, oversized Tees and coordinating suits in an array of grey, khaki green, serene yellow and black.

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Antonio Marras: Mr. Marras played to his strengths, mixing prints and mediums for Spring 2018. Beautiful maxi dresses with plisse pleats came down the runway alongside, parkas, lace skirts, oversized Tees and coordinating suits in an array of grey, khaki green, serene yellow and black.

Ermanno Scervino: Ermanno Daelli and Toni Scervino served up romance with a good measure of provocativeness thrown into the mix. There were stunning gauzy gowns in soft floral prints, bias-cut slip dresses and completely sheer T-shirts paired with lace skirts on show as well as lightweight knits and loosely tailored blazers that are sure to appeal to many women around the globe.

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Ermanno Scervino: Ermanno Daelli and Toni Scervino served up romance with a good measure of provocativeness thrown into the mix. There were stunning gauzy gowns in soft floral prints, bias-cut slip dresses and completely sheer T-shirts paired with lace skirts on show as well as lightweight knits and loosely tailored blazers that are sure to appeal to many women around the globe.

Alberta Ferretti: A sense of change was in the air at Alberta Ferretti. The Italian designer applied a more minimalistic approach to summer dressing opting for maxi dresses, ribbed knits and gowns and dresses embellished with metallic pailettes.

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Alberta Ferretti: A sense of change was in the air at Alberta Ferretti. The Italian designer applied a more minimalistic approach to summer dressing opting for maxi dresses, ribbed knits and gowns and dresses embellished with metallic pailettes.

Sportmax: Riding high on the wave of athleisure resurgence, today’s Sportmax collection provided countless wardrobe options for fuss-free sportswear-inspired dressing. Short sleeved blousons and long silky dresses in pink and blue were spot on for office wear while the leather shorts and skintight knits hold plenty of streetwear appeal.

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Sportmax: Riding high on the wave of athleisure resurgence, today’s Sportmax collection provided countless wardrobe options for fuss-free sportswear-inspired dressing. Short sleeved blousons and long silky dresses in pink and blue were spot on for office wear while the leather shorts and skintight knits hold plenty of streetwear appeal.

Marco de Vincenzo: Marco de Vincenzo paid homage to his Sicilian roots sending out T-shirts emblazoned with Ultrapharum – Sicily’s original name. His mix and match approach to styling showcased the versatility of his collection with longline jumpers layered over Tess and trousers and structured, collarless jackets worn over pleated maxi dresses and skirts.

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Marco de Vincenzo: Marco de Vincenzo paid homage to his Sicilian roots sending out T-shirts emblazoned with Ultrapharum – Sicily’s original name. His mix and match approach to styling showcased the versatility of his collection with longline jumpers layered over Tess and trousers and structured, collarless jackets worn over pleated maxi dresses and skirts.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Fulvio Rigoni’s collection for storied Italian house Salvatore Ferragamo fell a bit flat this season. Perhaps it was wide-ranging array of silhouettes and styles or the many different colours and fabrics used, but the overall aesthetic lacked cohesiveness. There were some positives however, the python print pieces and broderie anglasie shirt dresses were sophisticated and chic and the strappy sandals and coloured mules held lots of appeal.

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Salvatore Ferragamo: Fulvio Rigoni’s collection for storied Italian house Salvatore Ferragamo fell a bit flat this season. Perhaps it was wide-ranging array of silhouettes and styles or the many different colours and fabrics used, but the overall aesthetic lacked cohesiveness. There were some positives however, the python print pieces and broderie anglasie shirt dresses were sophisticated and chic and the strappy sandals and coloured mules held lots of appeal.

Prada: Miuccia Prada played close attention to tailoring this season, creating sharply cut trenches, raincoats and blazers with puffed up sleeves. Prada showcased the drawings of female cartoonists and manga artists on her garments, juxtaposed against strong colours and silhouettes. The result was powerful and empowering with these pieces sure to instill confidence in whoever who wears them.

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Prada: Miuccia Prada played close attention to tailoring this season, creating sharply cut trenches, raincoats and blazers with puffed up sleeves. Prada showcased the drawings of female cartoonists and manga artists on her garments, juxtaposed against strong colours and silhouettes. The result was powerful and empowering with these pieces sure to instill confidence in whoever who wears them.

Jil Sander: Luke and Lucie Meier got off to a promising start at Jil Sander where they revisited the German brand’s roots by exploring sander’s signature white shirts. Minimal yet effective, the collection was a study in relaxed and uncontrived elegance.

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Jil Sander: Luke and Lucie Meier got off to a promising start at Jil Sander where they revisited the German brand’s roots by exploring sander’s signature white shirts. Minimal yet effective, the collection was a study in relaxed and uncontrived elegance.

Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier looked to colour and embellishment to bring his designs to life this season. The colour came in the form of soft lilacs, sweet shades of peach and blush while the embellishment aspect was added through jeweled stones, studs and eyelets. A more animated showing than previous seasons, there was plenty to covet for young and old fans of the house.

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Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier looked to colour and embellishment to bring his designs to life this season. The colour came in the form of soft lilacs, sweet shades of peach and blush while the embellishment aspect was added through jeweled stones, studs and eyelets. A more animated showing than previous seasons, there was plenty to covet for young and old fans of the house.

Roberto Cavalli: British designer Paul Surridge made his debut for Roberto Cavalli this season. Incorporating certain cavalla-isms such as animal prints and diaphanous cuts, with tailored shirts, coats and racer-back tanks and dresses the show lacked the sense of bohemia long associated with the house, but still showed promise on the new designer’s part. Watch this space.

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Roberto Cavalli: British designer Paul Surridge made his debut for Roberto Cavalli this season. Incorporating certain cavalla-isms such as animal prints and diaphanous cuts, with tailored shirts, coats and racer-back tanks and dresses the show lacked the sense of bohemia long associated with the house, but still showed promise on the new designer’s part. Watch this space.

Versace: Donatella Versace chose to mark the 20th anniversary of her brother’s death by drawing from his greatest hits. It was a bold and fitting tribute to Gianni Versace that felt surprisingly relevant for the women of today.

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Versace: Donatella Versace chose to mark the 20th anniversary of her brother’s death by drawing from his greatest hits. It was a bold and fitting tribute to Gianni Versace that felt surprisingly relevant for the women of today.

MSGM: Massimo Giorgetti embraced summer brights, cleverly tempering them with shades of beige, white and khaki. His talent for creating super cool streetwear pieces shone through which is sure to please his young clientele.

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MSGM: Massimo Giorgetti embraced summer brights, cleverly tempering them with shades of beige, white and khaki. His talent for creating super cool streetwear pieces shone through which is sure to please his young clientele.

Dolce&Gabbana: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's 'Queen of Hearts' collection explored love in its many forms which resulted in many heart motifs as well as plenty of the sheer lingerie-style dresses that have become synonymous with the brand.

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Dolce&Gabbana: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's 'Queen of Hearts' collection explored love in its many forms which resulted in many heart motifs as well as plenty of the sheer lingerie-style dresses that have become synonymous with the brand.

Marni: Francesco Risso saw English gardens through Tim Burton's eyes for spring/summer18 which resulted in garments emblazoned with large-scale floral blooms, pretty appliqué flowers and sweet confectionery coloured furs.

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Marni: Francesco Risso saw English gardens through Tim Burton's eyes for spring/summer18 which resulted in garments emblazoned with large-scale floral blooms, pretty appliqué flowers and sweet confectionery coloured furs.