Kim Jones punctured the serenity of Egypt’s deserts with a collection of Dior menswear that fuses past, present and future
Set against the captivating Great Pyramids of Giza, Kim Jones debuted Dior Men Autumn 2023. The choice of location – the Great Pyramids were built in alignment with Orion’s Belt – is an homage to Monsieur Dior’s own infatuation with superstition and belief in astrology. “It links to Christian Dior in that sense and by way of his fascination with symbols and superstitions,” Jones details in the Dior Men show notes. “In both the collection and the show there is an idea of ‘guided by the stars’ and what that can entail in many ways.”
In honour of Dior’s 75th anniversary year, Jones plays on principles of the House by reworking archival pieces and savoir-faire, including traditional pattern-cutting techniques; emblematic embroideries, and silhouettes borrowed from womenswear. Exhibit A? The demi-kilt takes inspiration from the 1950s bonne fortune bias-pleated dress. Elsewhere, the artistic director modernises history with cannage, neoprene panelling and metal finishes.
The predominantly neutral collection of sand, shell and stone marries sportswear and tailoring with Jones’ futuristic flair – the latter juxtaposing the 4,500-year-old ancient wonders. Sci-fi references are woven through knitwear and galaxy-splashed pieces, offering a playful lightness to heavy, textured garments. See all the looks from the Dior Men Autumn 2023 collection in the gallery below.
Alongside Kim Jones’ collection, Dior Men released a capsule guest designed by Denim Tears founder Tremaine Emory. The American designer has previously worked at Marc Jacobs, Yeezy, Nike and Supreme and is renowned for highlighting Black culture and history, using his Denim Tears collections as a vessel for storytelling.
Dior Tears is a dialogue between New York, New Orleans and Paris, combining American and French cultural codes, and is largely inspired by the arrival of African-American jazz musicians in Paris. “I want to share that moment in time, that beautiful moment in time where Black writers and musicians and artists were coming from America, running from America, and finding some level of acceptance in certain European cities,” Emory explains.
In addition, Dior Tears takes inspiration from Black Ivy League students of the fifties with preppy separates and workwear-inspired tailoring. The collection was shown in tableau vivant form in Cairo’s Grand Egyptian Museum. Discover the collection