Simone Rocha’s AW25 show at London Fashion Week was a masterclass in contrasts - rebellion softened by romance, tradition warped by subversion. Staged at the grand and gilded Goldsmiths’ Hall, the setting itself played into Rocha’s signature tension, where old-world opulence clashed beautifully with the collection’s subversive edge. The high ceilings, intricate chandeliers, and ornate gold detailing created a regal atmosphere - one that made the undone, rebellious spirit of the clothes feel even more defiant.
Alexa Chung, Bel Powley, and Fiona Shaw brought cinematic presence to the runway, embodying the different characters that defined the collection. Rocha reimagined school-day nostalgia through a twisted, dreamlike lens - tomboy tailoring clashed with delicate embellishments, while structured outerwear introduced a harder, more utilitarian feel. Biker jackets were transformed into puff-sleeve dresses, military greatcoats were cinched at the waist, and fringed skirts swayed with movement, balancing toughness with grace.
The details told a deeper story. Pink ribbons trailed behind models, their softness offset by the rigid leather harnesses and thick belts reminiscent of bike chain locks. Sheer layers added a sense of fragility, while voluminous silhouettes played with the idea of presence and absence - taking up space while still feeling weightless. Rocha’s signature romanticism was ever-present, but it was laced with a quiet defiance, a whisper of rebellion beneath the ribbons and tulle.
Despite the tougher elements, the collection never lost its sense of vulnerability. Plush rabbit bags and pastel tones softened the edges, adding a dreamlike quality to the chaos. The interplay between jet black leathers and powder pinks and baby blues reflected Rocha’s ability to balance opposing forces - nostalgia and modernity, delicacy and power.
With each look, the collection walked the line between past and present, tradition and subversion - always pushing the boundaries of femininity without ever losing its heart. And in a moment that felt particularly fitting, the forever IT girl Alexa Chung took to the runway, cementing the collection’s effortless blend of cool, nostalgia, and modern rebellion.
