London Fashion Week is no stranger to spectacle, but Roksanda’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show at Space House felt different - like stepping into a living sculpture. The brutalist landmark set the stage for a collection that was bold, sculptural, and deeply emotional, paying tribute to the late British artist Phyllida Barlow. But amid the architectural silhouettes and high-impact colour, a quiet moment of joy stole the show.
On each seat sat a plush, editorial cushion, coming in many different variations. And in an effortlessly cool move, guests were told to take them home. The moment the show ended, a swarm of photographers turned their lenses from the models to the audience, snapping editors, influencers, and fashion insiders spilling onto the streets of London, clutching their couture-worthy keepsakes. The scene was surreal, almost cinematic - like the final shot of a film where fashion, art, and memory collide.
Roksanda’s AW/25 collection was an ode to Phyllida Barlow, whose work redefined materiality and form. Known for turning discarded materials into large-scale sculptures, Barlow played with fragility and impermanence - ideas that pulsed through the collection. Prints were created by scanning plastic scraps, mirrored surfaces, and cardboard, then layering them with bold painted strokes, echoing Barlow’s raw, tactile approach to art.
In the show’s final moments, Barlow’s own voice filled the room, taken from her last-ever public interview recorded just days before her passing. The effect was haunting - a poignant tribute that grounded the collection in something deeper than fashion.
Roksanda’s signature drama was on full display. Fringe-spiked raffia, fil coupé tapestry, and oversized sequins transformed garments into wearable sculptures. Architectural tailoring clashed with fluid, painterly fabrics, while dresses peeled back to reveal their inner construction, playing with ideas of exposure and structure.
This season also introduced a collaboration with Dylon, the colour specialists. Three looks, crafted from upcycled materials and trims from previous collections, were dyed in striking hues, proving that sustainability can be just as bold as excess.
The setting as always felt part of the story. Designed by Richard Seifert, Space House’s raw concrete and geometric lines mirrored the structural precision of Roksanda’s designs. It also recalled the cavernous spaces where Barlow’s monumental sculptures once stood, creating a seamless dialogue between art and fashion.
By the time the last guests drifted out, cradling their one-of-a-kind cushions, it was clear - Roksanda didn’t just present a collection. She created a moment. One that lingered long after the last look left the runway.
