Off-White made a powerful statement at its New York Fashion Week debut, transforming Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2 into a basketball court to present its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Under the direction of creative head Ib Kamara, the show celebrated sport, culture and heritage with an autobiographical collection titled "Duty Free," reflecting a blend of American streetwear and African influences while honouring the late Virgil Abloh.
Kamara, originally from Sierra Leone and raised in London, drew from a recent trip to Ghana—an important place for Abloh and a source of inspiration for his designs. Kamara highlighted New York as a symbol of opportunity for many Africans, infusing the collection with a sense of ambition and exploration. His designs meld athletic elements with refined tailoring, creating garments that are both versatile and impactful.
Set against the backdrop of a Brooklyn basketball court drenched in afternoon sunshine, the show transcended traditional runway formats. Basketball served as a central inspiration - evident through varsity jackets, sportswear silhouettes and skin-tight hoodies - but Kamara elevated the concept with sophisticated tailoring, exaggerated layers and elements that spoke to identity and movement.
A notable feature was the colour red, which dominated the collection and provided a striking contrast to Off-White’s streetwear aesthetic. Star motifs also played a significant role, appearing on shirts, tops and accessories. These simple yet powerful symbols of aspiration and connection added a unique touch to the collection. More on-the-nose references to the "Duty Free" theme included paper plane-shaped pendants and bags, as well as aeroplane-shaped earrings.
From razor-sharp tailoring and plunging necklines to innovative takes on traditional sportswear, the collection marked a significant evolution for Off-White. While paying homage to Abloh’s legacy, it also showcased Kamara’s distinct vision, marking a new chapter for the brand.
