Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs returned to the grand setting of the New York Public Library with a collection titled Courage, a deeply personal reflection on fear as an intrinsic part of the creative process. In his show notes, Jacobs described fear not as an obstacle but as a necessary force that fuels artistic expression, authenticity, and innovation.
Dramatic silhouettes dominated the runway - voluminous ballgowns in bold hues, sculptural skirt suits reminiscent of surrealist art, and statement footwear that blurred the line between fashion and fantasy. The collection carried forward Jacobs’ signature theatricality, proving once again why he remains a master of spectacle. A vision of fearless self-expression came to life in exaggerated proportions and vibrant textures.
Carolina Herrera
Wes Gordon redefined femininity with a poetic, garden-inspired collection. Drawing inspiration from the 1979 film Being There, he imagined a wardrobe curated with the same care as a meticulously tended garden. Voluminous rosettes, delicate cashmere, embroidered capes, and structured bustiers merged sophistication with sensuality. The palette transitioned effortlessly between deep autumn hues and vibrant, spring-like tones, paying homage to Sonia Delaunay’s Rhythm Color. Lace and sheer elements added a modern allure, while matte latte-toned makeup and softly highlighted eyes reflected the collection’s ethereal quality.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch took American sportswear and gave it an avant-garde edge, distorting classic silhouettes and reworking familiar textures. The collection embraced deconstruction with banker shirts exaggerated at the cuffs, cardigans with unexpected slashes, and spiral-patterned shirt-dresses that moulded to the body in unpredictable ways. Corduroy appeared in cut-out dresses, needle-punched wool reimagined fleece, and sequins floated in optical illusion knits. Accessories leaned into tactile luxury, while the soundtrack blended hypnotic beats with nostalgic melodies, making for a collection that challenged the notion of ‘classic.’
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra stepped away from theatrical storytelling this season, instead focusing on timeless, meticulously crafted pieces. Staged at his Woolworth Building headquarters, the collection highlighted strong, feminine tailoring and a return to understated elegance. A navy cape coat, deceptively structured with hidden sleeves, redefined practicality, while chiffon evening dresses with flowing shawls brought a touch of nostalgic romance. The collection’s literary influence came in the form of Wuthering Heights, gifted to show attendees, underscoring a theme of passion, resilience, and enduring style.
Calvin Klein
After a six-year hiatus, Calvin Klein made a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week under new creative director Veronica Leoni. Embracing the house’s signature minimalism with a softer, more sensual edge, the collection redefined quiet luxury through precise tailoring, slip dresses, and knit henleys. A restrained palette of black, grey, and off-white highlighted the brand’s timeless aesthetic, while fluid silhouettes balanced structure with ease. With icons like Kate Moss and Christy Turlington in attendance - and even Calvin Klein himself showing support - Leoni’s debut signalled a bold new chapter for the legendary brand.
