As Paris Fashion Week gets underway, Milan’s Autumn/Winter 2025 shows are still lingering in our minds, having delivered collections that disrupted the usual narrative of luxury, creativity and craftsmanship. Milan did what it does best - mixing irreverence with elegance, where tradition collides with innovation in a way that only this city can. The energy on and off the runway proved one thing: Milan isn’t just about fashion. It’s a living, breathing conversation about the future, with one foot firmly planted in the past. Here’s a deep dive into the some of the best moments from Moschino, Missoni and more - each one pushing fashion forward while giving a nod to its legacy.
Moschino: Deconstruction with a Purpose
Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino collection is a commentary on the complexities of fashion today. A true celebration of craftsmanship, Appiolaza references the legacy of Franco Moschino with his playful, yet meaningful take on tailoring. This collection is where the stitch itself becomes a statement and "imperfection" is redefined as an intentional act of subversion. From garments frozen mid-creation to deconstructed dresses formed from composite parts, Moschino’s narrative speaks to both craftsmanship and playful rebellion. The collaboration with Sanderson brings archival floral prints into the fold, transformed with cheeky, surreal touches - flowers smiling, light bulbs popping - perfectly capturing Moschino’s signature DNA. Adding to the fun, the street style outside the show stirred anticipation for what was to come on the catwalk, and the Moschino coffee cups at a refreshment stall added a touch of whimsical glamour. The location itself exuded old-world charm, and the finale - complete with a confetti spray - had all the Moschino-like entertainment aspects that we all love. And of course, the political statement on climate change, “SOS Save Our Sphere,” left a bold, urgent message in its wake. In a world of fleeting trends, Moschino continues to raise critical questions about identity, sustainability, and the intersection of fashion with broader societal issues.
Missoni: Everyday Elegance, Elevated
Missoni’s Autumn//Winter collection took the everyday act of dressing and turned it into an art form. Under the brand’s visionary leadership, this season was a masterclass in effortless luxury. It’s about reimagining familiar pieces - cardigans, pea coats, oversized sweaters - and transforming them into objects of desire. Missoni’s signature blend of wool, cashmere and silk combined with an earthy colour palette and metallic flashes gives the collection a rich, grounded feel. Masculine-inspired silhouettes introduced an androgynous undertone, further elevating the idea of dressing as an intuitive art form. The venue - an ultra-cool warehouse vibe - created a feeling like fashion enthusiasts were locked in a fashion “lock-in,” witnessing pure creativity unfold. At the end of the show, a parade of models, flanked by security, headed to take a full team group picture - an iconic moment that made the whole experience feel even more legendary. In today’s fast-paced world, Missoni’s unapologetic embrace of simplicity was a breath of fresh air - a perfect reminder that elegance doesn’t have to be complicated.
Etro: Mythology and Metamorphosis
Etro’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, under the direction of Marco De Vincenzo, delves into creation and transformation through a fusion of mythology, history and art. Drawing inspiration from the Egyptian myth of Ra’s tears transforming into bees, the collection has a raw, primal aesthetic. De Vincenzo’s use of tactile fabrics like brushed wools, embroidered sequins and psychedelic velvets reflects a deep connection to the natural world. The collaboration with Korean artist Maria Jeon injects the collection with a fantastical edge. Prints are layered and textured, with motifs of mythical creatures and flora swirling around the body in a cycle of rebirth. Etro’s show was a visual feast - a symphony of colour, pattern, and metallics, where attendees were draped in Etro’s signature styles and prints, giving the event an undeniably bohemian, relaxed vibe. Yet, it was also impeccably put together - an experience that captured the very essence of the Etro brand.
Genny: A Modern Feminine Tribute
Sara Cavazza Facchini’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection for Genny is a love letter to femininity, expertly blending the House’s rich archive with a modern vision. Tassels - a motif that has transcended time and culture - take centre stage, symbolising both elegance and strength. From military and ecclesiastical insignia to a fashion statement of contemporary femininity, these tassels evoke a powerful sense of modernity. The collection showcases intricate embellishments, sculptural evening gowns, and luxurious materials like mohair and velvet, which further enhance the notion of femininity as a symbol of power. It’s a femininity that is soft, strong, vulnerable, and unyielding all at once. Cavazza Facchini’s reimagining of Genny’s archive strikes a delicate balance between heritage and the future of fashion, making it a collection perfectly suited to the confident, empowered woman of today.
Gianvito Rossi: Golden Luxury with a Modern Twist
Gianvito Rossi’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection redefines luxury footwear, offering sophistication and modernity in every design. The clean lines and finest materials elevate the notion of glamour and subtlety. Rossi’s use of gold accents and art-deco-inspired details, combined with expert mixes of textures, make the collection irresistible. The towering over-the-knee boots in soft suede demand attention, while the crystal-embellished slingbacks and chic ankle-tie sandals exude refined elegance. Each design is an ode to the power of perfectly executed minimalism. Rossi’s creations aren’t just shoes - they’re sculptural masterpieces, elongating the female figure with expert craftsmanship. As the industry moves forward, Rossi continues to demonstrate that true luxury lies in design that endures and defies trends.
Roberto Cavalli: Pompeii Reborn in a Blaze of Luxe and Legacy
Roberto Cavalli’s Pompeii Future knew how to bridge eras. The collection took us back to the ancient city, but not in the way you’d expect. Fausto Puglisi injected modern energy into the collection while paying homage to Cavalli’s DNA. The collection was a fusion of opulent femininity with a dose of untamed, fiery elegance. Think velvet devoré dresses and denim trousers that gave the collection a sculptural edge, juxtaposed against delicate painterly prints and flowing silhouettes. The vibes were heavy on ancient inspiration - mosaic effects, Pompeii garden prints, and lava stone accessories - but done in a way that made it feel unmistakably now. It wasn’t just about reviving the past; it was about using history as a jumping-off point for a new, seductive vision of luxury. In Puglisi’s hands, it wasn’t just fashion - it was an artful, timeless metamorphosis.
As we transition into Paris Fashion Week, Milan’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collections provide a timely reminder of the endless possibilities in fashion. Designers are pushing boundaries in how fashion interacts with culture, gender, and sustainability. In a season of shifting narratives, Milan has once again proven that it remains a city where the feeling of fashion is ingrained with every aspect.
