In LOEWE's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, creative director Jonathan Anderson pushes the boundaries of minimalism, proving that less truly can be more. This season, the focus is on stripping away the excess to reveal the essence of form, movement and craftsmanship. The result is a collection that charms with its quiet complexity, blending artistry with wearable designs.
The collection’s silhouettes are dreamlike and fluid, moving in soft curves and sculpted forms. Tailoring is simplified but never boring, flowing away from the body in shapes that evoke a sense of freedom. From the grandeur of oversized dresses and voluminous skirts to the understated pairing of slim trousers and T-shirts, each piece is designed to invite a second look. The subtlety in these contrasts leaves you guessing, never fully revealing itself at first glance.
LOEWE’s mastery of construction takes centre stage in this collection. Hidden boning and wiring create garments that extend and shift, expanding into space in unexpected ways. Surfaces are adorned with thoughtful details: delicate silk printed with impressionist flowers, feathers with artistic reproductions and camouflage patterns and shimmering mother-of-pearl accents. Soft nappa leather adds a layer of luxury to these carefully engineered pieces, offering a tactile richness that enhances the collection's minimalist aesthetic.
The accessories in the collection carry the same quiet sophistication. Footwear ranges from boat shoes to elongated oxfords and high-top Ballet Runners, grounding the ethereal silhouettes in practicality. A standout addition is the Madrid bag, a sleek trapezoid-shaped accessory that reflects LOEWE’s commitment to blending innovation with tradition. Meanwhile, the Puzzle bag is updated for SS25 with ultra-light, squishy leather, giving the iconic design a fresh, relaxed feel.
One of the most intriguing elements of the show was the use of a white Johann Sebastian Bach T-shirt, adorned with sheet music and reminiscent of vintage rock memorabilia. This garment encapsulates the collection’s focus on simplicity: when all the noise is taken away, only melody and rhythm remain. It’s a powerful metaphor for the collection as a whole - quiet but impactful.
The show itself was minimal yet profound, featuring a single sculpture by British artist Tracey Emin. Her bronze bird perched atop a towering post symbolised both fragility and strength, reflecting the duality of LOEWE’s designs. Emin’s work, The Only Place You Came To Me Was In My Sleep (2017), speaks to themes of memory and resilience, mirroring the collection’s own exploration of vulnerability and transformation.
