Dries Van Noten’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Behind the Curtain, delivered a raw, reflective debut for Julian Klausner as the House’s new Creative Director. Presented at the Palais Garnier in Paris - an iconic venue steeped in history—the show became a stage for the delicate balance between the past and the present. Klausner, drawing from childhood memories of exploring his family’s costume box, brings a personal and intimate energy to this collection - a reminder that clothing is about transformation, rituals, and how we shape our identities.
The colour palette was nothing short of extraordinary. Rich, warm tones - emerald green and electric blue, orange and metallic yellow - punctuated the collection like the glow of a sunset in the desert. These hues were met with explosive pops of vivid, juicy colour that ignited the atmosphere with so much life and emotion. The colours felt alive, almost tangible, drawing you into the heart of the collection in a way that stirred something deep. Each look seemed to evoke a feeling, a vivid landscape of warmth and boldness, giving the entire collection a powerful, almost cinematic presence.
Textures played a starring role. The fabrics were so varied and striking in their patterns and textiles that it was hard not to get lost in their tactile beauty. Velvet, rug jacquards, and rich silks were married with unexpected elements like curtain tassels and fringes, seamlessly integrating the opulence of opera décor into high fashion. Each texture added another layer of depth, contributing to the overall sense of theatre and grandeur. The fabrics weren't just materials - they were part of a larger narrative, a sensorial experience that demanded attention.
In terms of silhouette, Behind the Curtain felt like a conversation between elegance and rawness. The mix of structured tailoring with flowing, billowy draping created a visual tension that was striking. Oversized cuffs that could swallow a wrist, sculpted matelassé curls, and fabric-covered buttons on pant legs spoke to a rebellious interpretation of classic styles. What really stood out, though, was the way Klausner played with proportions. Dresses and coats in gorgeous silhouettes were cinched at the waist, allowing the volume to flow dramatically while still feeling intimate and feminine. The collection spoke to both strength and softness in a seamless blend, the wide, exaggerated shapes contrasted by the delicate cinching at the waist that made the figures feel distinctly human - powerful yet vulnerable.
It’s the craftsmanship where Klausner’s vision really begins to shine. There’s a deliberate rawness in the luxe, an embrace of the handmade that gives everything an edge. Shoelaces were adorned with whipstitching, and the embroidery, with jewel-toned arabesques, evoked the ornate beauty of the opera. The attention to detail wasn’t just for show, it was about creating a deeper connection to the garments. Every stitch and every bead added meaning, and in a world of fast fashion, it felt almost revolutionary.
Ultimately, Behind the Curtain isn’t just a fashion collection; it’s an exploration of transformation itself. Klausner’s vision speaks to how clothing transcends the physical and becomes something much more personal - how it connects us to the past, to tradition, and yet propels us forward into the future. It’s a celebration of the tactile nature of fashion, of the way garments shape not just the wearer but the entire narrative of how we present ourselves to the world. The collection bridges history and future with a quiet, stunning elegance - a visual language that speaks directly to both the heart and the mind.
