'Standard' isn't typically a word one would expect a designer to associate with their own collection. However, doing the expected isn't exactly Balenciaga's forte. At the top of Demna's show notes for Balenciaga's autumn/winter 2025 collection was the definition of 'standard.' That is, "A recognised or established level of quality, style or expectation within a particular area, which serves as a reference for comparison, imitation or adherence."
Demna flip-reverses the idea of standard dress codes for a collection that toys with perceptions of the expected, especially where workwear is concerned - what first appears as a run-of-the-mill two-piece suit is hand-wrinkled, distressed to evoke moth-eaten fabric, and worn with a maxi skirt. Elsewhere, the white shirt - a humble wardrobe staple for any office-dweller - finds itself enhanced with body-loving corsetry (which, quite likely, would have you reported to HR). Casual Friday? Demna offsets tailoring with a standard-fit T-shirt emblazoned with the word 'standard' as well as an extremely distressed iteration akin to a muscle tee.
Although, on the surface, the collection could be seen as straight-forward, those familiar with Demna's mastery know of the innovation that lies behind each garment. For autumn/winter 2025, denim is resin-treated and crushed to offer permanent wrinkles, a hoodie is hand-stitched with dry molleon and lined in super-fine cashmere, and the now-iconic plastic bag shoppers are made with crushed Dyneema, a technical textile with kevlar-like strength.
A Balenciaga collection would not be complete without athleisure-adjacent pieces, and this year's selection comes courtesy of a collaboration with Puma- the highlights being technical sweatsuits incorporating archival Puma detailing and a reimagining of the Speedcat Sneaker. Balenciaga's AW25 collection also included pieces created in collaboration with Alpinestars, pioneers in high-performance racing equipment. A helmet crafted from high-density carbon fibre is perhaps most telling of the collaboration, while those looking to opt for a subtle inclusion into their wardrobes may prefer to reach for the technical gloves - enhanced with flexibility, protection and breathability for on-the-road wear.
