Witnessing the brilliance of regional creatives be appreciated on a global stage is always thrilling for those of us in the Middle East, as we rejoice in the knowledge that couturiers from our shores are finally achieving the recognition they deserve. Here, MOJEH rounds-up the regional couturiers that stole the show at Paris Couture Week.
Ashi Studio
Mohammed Ashi of Saudi Arabian Maison Ashi Studio made his return to Haute Couture week this year, marking his second appearance since achieving the title of the first Saudi Arabian designer to feature in the official Paris Couture Week schedule. The renowned designer was also recently featured on the Business of Fashion 500 It List which celebrates trailblazers in the industry. For SS24, Ashi Studio presents a monochromatic collection of wearable art that incorporates texture, architectural silhouettes and sensuality.
Zuhair Murad
Being adorned in an exquisite haute couture creation makes the wearer feel like royalty. The intricacies, the luxurious materials, a silhouette that fits like a glove. Zuhair Murad captures this feeling for the SS24 Haute Couture collection, taking inspiration from goddesses and strong female figures. Dubbed A Tyrian Arabesque, the collection utilises drapery, Greco-Roman pendants and metallic inlays to portray opulence, elsewhere recalling olives and their oil through deep green. The Lebanese couturier's other influence - his love for the sea and Phoenician heritage - is evident though crystals designed to resemble sea spray and amber evoking Mediterranean sunsets. Not only has the region consistently celebrated Zuhair Murad's triumphs including dressing Beyoncé and helping to put the region on the fashion map, but brides past and present have long adored his bridal creations, available in Riyadh, Dubai and Lebanon through Esposa Group, the region's exclusive bridal boutique.
Maison Sara Chraïbi
Mother Nature's palette informed Moroccan designer Sara Chraïbi's Haute Couture collection, The Earth. The pieces take inspiration from the golden sands of desert dunes and watercolour skies, coming to life through Chraïbi's contemporary take on Moroccan savoir-faire and craftsmanship. The Earth emphasises the Maison's exquisite embroidery techniques and infuses heritage into every haute couture creation.
Georges Hobeika
Georges Hobeika staged an ode to the Arab world for SS24 Haute Couture, weaving nostalgia throughout a collection of breathtaking creations. From traditional Arabian coffee pots reimagined as motifs and jewellery to beads, fringe and extravagance fitting for an evening on the town in 1970s Beirut. The details of tapestries inform sweeping gowns and skirts that simultaneously honour modest approaches to dressing; daring silhouettes come courtesy of translucent garments adorned with strategically placed crystals.
Rami Al Ali
In-keeping with his Middle Eastern colleagues, Rami Al Ali also infused references to the region throughout the SS24 Haute Couture collection. A love letter to Bedouin heritage, the 30-piece offering is not only a stunning showcase of the Syrian-born designer's craftsmanship and creativity, but a celebration of the rich cultural heritage of a bygone Bedouin era: the wool of traditional tents, graphic figures resembling woven rugs, airy fabrics appearing to be blowing in a desert wind, and the jewel-toned palette.
Elie Saab
Lebanese couturier Elie Saab presented a masterclass in intricate embroidery in the Desert Rose SS24 Haute Couture collection, seeking inspiration from the landscapes, palette and culture of Marrakesh, Morocco. Pale pastels reminiscent of dusty desert sunsets; gilded threads woven throughout to evoke memories of sun-dappled cityscapes; opulent hues of olive, purple and red mirror mosaics. There was plenty to ooh and aah over at the Paris show, including Jennifer Lopez, who arrived on the FROW in a cascading floral cape overtop a green chiffon gown.
