Milan’s rain-slicked streets set the scene for Alberta Ferretti’s autumn/winter 2025 show - an ode to movement, romance, and the kind of effortless drama that lingers long after the last model disappears. It was a mood, a slow-burning story told in texture and silhouette.
The show also marked the debut collection by Lorenzo Serafini for the House. He was appointed creative director in October 2024 and his first collection was highly anticipated. Thankfully, it did not disappoint.
Held in a history-rich venue, that is, the House's Milan headquarters in the Palazzo Donizetti, the setting felt like a deliberate nod to the past without being weighed down by it. This wasn’t about nostalgia; it was about evolution. The collection moved like a dream - floating, draping, skimming the body with an ease that felt instinctive. Soft tailoring met whisper-thin chiffon, cinched waists balanced by coats that billowed behind like something out of a noir film. It was classic Ferretti, but sharper, bolder.
The palette started deep and moody - inky blacks, greys - before shifting, as if hit by sudden light. Muted blues, rich chocolates, and molten metallics flickered across fabrics, catching in embroidery so intricate it felt like a whisper rather than a statement. Handmade buttons, barely-there beadwork, sheer layers that played with shadow - all the details you’d expect from Ferretti, but with a renewed confidence and perspective.
From a sculptural mini dress that felt like wearable art to a sweeping floor-length coat that swallowed the runway in slow motion. And the final gown, weightless and impossibly fluid, leaving a collective exhale in its wake.
Serafini didn’t just put on a show - he pulled us into a feeling. In a world obsessed with speed and spectacle, this was proof that fashion can still make you dream.
