Creating a garment that has a universal appeal and bridges the cultural gap between Europe and the Middle East ensures that our region remains a hub for global fashion contenders. We talk to Faiza Bouguessa, the French Algerian abaya designer who resides in Dubai and is the brainchild and founder of the highly innovative label Bouguessa. Having dressed pro-feminist superstar Beyonce earlier this year, Faiza’s thoughts on tradition, heritage and inspiration continue to intrigue us.
By Dmitri Ruwan
Faiza Bouguessa in her work space
What does the typical abaya denote to you?
To me the abaya has expanded beyond its religious context, it is now an elegant and stylish cultural symbol.
What was your most significant inspiration when creating Bouguessa?
I would say minimalism and elegance. I wanted to offer abayas that are different but appealing.
The silhouettes of your AW15 collection have a unique appeal. Are you planning on branching into eveningwear?
At the moment it is not my intention to do eveningwear. However, you will definitely continue seeing some ready-to-wear in my collections that could be mixed and matched with my abaya designs or be worn separately by international clients. I feel this would be a way to make Bouguessa blend in as a global brand but keep its main focus, which is the Middle Eastern market.
How have traditions and cultural beliefs shaped your label?
Many countries around the world have been influenced by one another creating culturally diverse societies. In fact, the effect of globalization can be seen today on local labels. Traditional clothing from around the world is a constant inspiration for the fashion industry. As for me, I have incorporated the French touch into a traditional garment: sophistication and subtle elegance.
Bouguessa AW15 Campaign focuses on minimalist lines with accents of rich colour
How do you think the abaya is viewed internationally?
A few years back I would have said that the western world views the abaya as an object of oppression. Now, international brands such as Hermes and Chanel are integrating Arabic inspiration into their latest collections. I am happy to have received an amazing response from the international industry, having had the chance to present my first collection at last year’s Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience, not to mention the fact that Beyonce recently wore one of my abayas.
How did growing up in France influence your design capabilities?
It was very important to expose to the world the elegance and strength that I have encountered in the Middle Eastern women who wear the abaya. To do so, I incorporate French aesthetics into the abaya to offer my interpretation of a garment that is minimal, classic and sophisticated. I think it worked since we were recently contacted by the prestigious tradeshow ‘Tranoi’ in Paris to take part in their October edition during fashion week. I am happy to take Bouguessa to Paris next season!
Dubai is rapidly garnering massive attention from overseas due to its growing list of independent designers and emerging labels. How are local labels such as Bouguessa creating a cultural renewal?
Dubai is a hub of fashion and is increasingly seen as synonymous with style. For too long Middle Eastern dress was simply branded (and often caricatured) as ultra-conservative and boring. This provides a challenge to change the mind-set but equally a wonderful opportunity to innovate. It is important that small independent designers can flourish in this creative environment, and I think to do so we should not try to justify ourselves by forcing the cultural symbols into our designs. Our cultural identity lies within ourselves and I feel will always show through our work no matter what.
A rare insight into the creative process, Bouguessa Ramadan Collection Moodboard SS15
In your opinion, what do local brands have to offer the international fashion world?
Middle Eastern customers have a big influence on the European market according to market studies which is why a lot of international brands are starting to focus more on what they want. Local brands are the ones that know best what these women really want, so we have a strong advantage. What we also offer to the international fashion circuit is a certain innovation in the cut of garments like the kaftan, or long abayas. My summer abayas could be worn as lightweight coats internationally.
The toughest challenge you encountered, being a self-taught designer?
I would say that staying focused and editing my collection during the design process was a big challenge especially when you’re an up and coming designer.
What can we expect from Bouguessa’s SS16 collection?
Dusky neutral tones with our signature structured and clean lines and I can’t reveal any more because I am still in the design proccess and would like to retain a little element of surprise!
