Some people buy a brand to flaunt its label, while others believe it because they genuinely appreciate exquisite design. The latter defines the Philophiles, a term coined by the fashion industry to describe a style tribe devoted to the Céline that once existed under the creative direction of Phoebe Philo.
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On Monday, Phoebe Philo's highly-anticipated first collection was released exclusively via www.phoebephilo.com. Within 24 hours of the launch, over two-thirds of the items had already sold out.
This shouldn't come as a surprise, considering Philo's status as one of the most influential designers of our time.
Just after her debut season at Céline back in 2008, she "cut through fashion's tired fantasy, turning the dust-gathering Parisian house into a platform for sharp reality and hyper-luxurious clothing," wrote Penny Martin for The Gentlewoman in 2010. "Philo designs the clothes women actually want to wear," she added.
Indeed, during her tenure as the creative director at Céline from 2008 until 2017, Phoebe Philo not only tripled the annual sales of the LVMH-owned brand, an estimated €700 million but inspired numerous other young designers, including Tibi and Peter Do, to adopt her signature Philo-inspired minimal elegance. It's no wonder it became the most copied by the fast fashion giants.
Phoebe Philo's laid-back luxe style gave women the comfort and ease they had been longing for," explained fashion historian Hannah Rochelle to Melissa Twigg in the South China Morning Post recently. Philo's impact was so profound her own fashion choices became a standard. Rochelle cites the example of when she paired Adidas Stan Smith sneakers with a turtleneck and slim black trousers in 2010, "it set the stage for a decade-long trend among women, both for the tennis shoes and for tucking long hair into that same turtleneck."
Born in Paris to British parents and educated at Central Saint Martins, Philo's career began when she joined Stella McCartney at Chloé as her first assistant in 1997. Her ascent continued when she took over as creative director of Chloé after McCartney's departure in 2001. Under her leadership, Chloé achieved commercial success, thanks to her effortless and feminine creations, along with iconic "It" bag designs such as the Paddington.
Phoebe's vision was also evident in her campaigns, often expressing her pride in ageing gracefully. For example, the casting of 80-year-old Joan Didion for a Celine campaign in 2015. She also made a mark as one of the first creative directors at a major fashion label to take proper maternity leave, setting an example for others in the industry.
Now, to the delight of her loyal fanbase worldwide, Philo is back. But this time, with an entirely different playbook. While LVMH holds a minority stake in her brand, it operates as a startup and an independent label, aligning with Philo's long-standing desire for independence and creative freedom. In 2021, she told The Business of Fashion, "To be independent, to govern and experiment on my terms is hugely significant to me."
As Phoebe Philo ventures into this new chapter of her career, the question arises: can her brand's success extend beyond the "Philophiles"?
Here are the top picks by Mojeh editors and why they're worth the investment:
This chic version elevates your classic leather jacket with an attachable scarf, adding versatility to your wardrobe.
