I'm viewing a pretty, powder blue-hued chair, designed so exquisitely that I’d rather stand and admire it than sit on it. The round, pouf-like seat is completed with a wicker back that’s elevated with colourful tatreez embroidery. It was crafted by Lebanese designer Nada Debs in collaboration with Inaash — a social enterprise empowering Palestinian refugee women — and it resides at Doha private members’ club Sanad. Nearby, a trio of larger-than-life agals (black, rope-like accessories used to secure Arab men’s ghutra scarves on their heads) made by contemporary Qatari artist Shouq al Mana, stands tall as a reminder and in reverence of local culture. Heavy tomes about Qatar, its history and its pulsating art scene are displayed on coffee tables within the travertine walls, which were designed to simulate the experience of walking through sand dunes.
Design is in the details; an unofficial mantra I soon learn is quintessential of Qatar’s capital city, which makes a convenient weekend escape from the UAE. The flight from Dubai to Doha is just 50 minutes — about the same as the commute time from one end of Dubai to the other, in rush hour. Doha airport trades in the hustle, bustle and bodies packed tightly together for a comparatively peaceful welcome, with a stillness rarely experienced in the ever-swelling Emirates. Of course, this city experienced its own influx of tourism in 2022. “Qatar lit up with the World Cup,” one resident tells me. However the country has now emptied of that frenzied fervour, offering a slower pace coupled with an undeniably accelerated art scene.
Just outside Sanad, cobblestone streets set a quaint tone to Msheireb, Doha’s downtown district and home to history museums and heritage sites, all developed through sustainable design. One such museum is M7, located opposite a Sumosan and Harrods Tea Room. I visit the new high jewellery exhibition Chaumet & Nature: Nature-Inspired Jewellery Since 1780, which contains 108 jewels from Chaumet collections and private loans from within Qatar. From regal tiaras and crowns to decadent neckpieces and bejewelled brooches — and even cigarette cases — the Maison’s diamond-studded masterpieces are accompanied with stories of their creation and famous owners. While exotic birds and even bees, a signature mark of Napoleon Bonaparte, make magnificent muses, one of my favourite sets on display was Chaumet’s 2015 Wheat necklace and ring; minimalist in comparison to some of the other extravagant pieces, and inspired by one of nature’s most humble and simple forms. I also loved seeing the sophisticated secret watches — jewel-studded bracelets that slide to reveal watch faces underneath — up close. A visit to M7 is incomplete without a trip to the museum’s concept store Studio 7, where quirky finds by local brands flaunt colourful patterns and embroidered Arabic calligraphy across fashion, stationery and home décor.
Qatar’s creative scene is thriving, its landscape dotted with architectural wonders with roots deeper than outward aesthetics. The Museum of Islamic Art, located on Doha’s corniche, for instance, is not only a sight to behold but also the Middle East’s first carbon neutral-certified museum. It was constructed by Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei, who came out of retirement at age 91 especially for this project, and its topmost exterior resembles an Arab woman’s niqab. Within the museum’s permanent collection, more than one thousand pieces tell stories of Islam’s expansion, with artefacts such as coins, ceramics, jewellery and more from early dynasties presented amid dark corridors with soft gold spotlights. There are a number of Qur’ans dating back to these caliphates, and ancient Qur’anic volumes are also currently on display at the museum’s Splendours of the Atlas exhibition, which traces the rich history of Morocco through heritage crafts and creative collaborations. Here, hung on vibrant walls fitted with tiles and distinctive Maghrebi archways, photographs by Mous Lamrabat symbolise layered identities and a celebration of heritage, encapsulating the spirit of the city’s rapidly-rising creative scene.
Doha is brimming with artistic talent and a deeply-rooted appreciation for design. The ruling Al Thani family have long been patrons of the arts, and have made great efforts to embed this throughout the nation, from establishing numerous museums to commissioning public art installations. “Artwork is everywhere; on the streets and even in the desert — this is deliberate,” says Sheikh Abdelaziz bin Khalifa bin Hamad Al Thani, director of the National Museum of Qatar. “Our entire country is like an outdoor art museum.”
A colossal metallic battoola, or face mask worn traditionally by Gulf Arab women, created by Sheikh Hassan bin Mohammed al Thani, is erected at the entrance of the National Museum of Qatar’s permanent collection. Visitors to this exhibition will learn that Qatar was once all underwater, and will see a scientific replica of a fish that lived here 400 million years ago. Elements of the land’s natural habitat are all on display, including the desert rose — naturally-occurring gypsum or baryte crystal formations that take up to a thousand years to fully bloom — which the entire building exterior is modelled after. My favourite part here was the section delving deep into Doha’s pearl diving history. From immersive video installations recreating the songs that were performed on the boat after pearls were found, to depictions of a pearl diver’s attire, every element of this once-lucrative industry is put in the spotlight, culminating in a curation of jewellery that features Gulf pearls — including pieces by Bvlgari and Cartier.
This museum’s highlight exhibition right now, inaugurated by the Prime Minister of Pakistan last month, is Manzar: Art and Architecture from Pakistan 1940s to Today. Artworks beginning from the pre-partition British Raj depict the division, displacement, tumult and remarkable triumphs of Pakistan — from intricate, miniature paintings to contemporary pieces crafted from domestic materials and fabrics. I was thrilled to see posters by Samya Arif promoting the country’s feminist movement, the Aurat March, as well as an entire section on pop art which features an installation of helmets crafted from hand-painted kitchen utensils. Created by Adeela Suleman, these headpieces spark conversations around women’s safety. Meanwhile, a collaboration with the Heritage Foundation of Pakistan in the building’s outdoor space shows artistic interpretations of earthquake relief shelters.
Also on show at The National Museum of Qatar is a series of 11 gowns created by Moroccan-Dutch fashion designer Mohamed Benchellal. This showcase, which is his first solo museum exhibition, marks a full-circle moment — only three years ago, he received the Fashion Trust Arabia eveningwear designer award from HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser in this very museum. “My designs are a way of honouring the past by looking forward to the future,” Benchellal tells MOJEH. “Doha is a representation of what the future of Arab fashion could look like.” Some of the dresses, which he fondly refers to as “sculptures”, were crafted from locally-sourced car upholstery fabrics, perforated on one side and shiny on the other. They were inspired by the landscapes of Qatar, and photographed at iconic spots around Doha. One, an angular, asymmetrical brown gown, was snapped at The Falcon — a public art installation by Dutch sculptor Tom Classen, situated right outside the departures hall of Hamad International Airport.
This farewell from The Falcon, which symbolises vision, focus, grace and precision, is a final reminder of the city’s expansive creative streak as well as an invitation to return, because try as you may, you can’t soak in all of the extraordinary art on view in Doha in just one weekend.
Exhibitions To Add To The Diary
Book tickets for these Doha exhibitions this winter, before they come to a close.
Benchellal Monumental: Sculpting Past Tomorrow at the National Museum of Qatar
A collection of 11 draped dresses by Dutch-Moroccan Mohamed Benchellal, inspired by Doha’s landscapes and architecture. Runs until 18 January, 2025
Manzar: Art and Architecture from Pakistan 1940s to Today at the National Museum of Qatar
From prints and paintings to pop art installations, the spotlight is on Pakistan at this thoughtfully-curated showcase. Runs until 31 January, 2025
Ellsworth Kelly at 100 at M7
The late American painter’s first exhibition in the Middle East and the most comprehensive display of his work in three decades. Runs until 25 February, 2025
Splendours of the Atlas at The Museum of Islamic Art
A stunning showcase of Morocco’s heritage and history featuring everything from fashion to home furnishings and photography. Runs until 8 March, 2025
Originally published in the December/January issue of MOJEH. Subscribe here
