The Region's Summer Style Stars

Harvey Nichols Dubai brings together the region’s brightest new design talent in a summer pop-up project that celebrates the spirit of the Ramadan season. We pick the standout pieces from the six vibrant collections.

By Natalie Trevis

Anthropology by Anthropology of Design

For a peaceful take on the colour riot of the season, the stone tones, charcoal greys and cool blues of the Anthropology collection bring a soothing minimalism. Designer Futtaim Beljaflah offers loose shirt dresses with gathered hemlines and enveloping open abayas that are a modern and sophisticated take on a cultural Emirati classic. Based around the ideas of anthropology, form and function, Anthropology of Design also serves as an independent platform for other designers to explore the influence of local heritage and culture on fashion, surpassing boundaries and offering covetable season-less clothing in the process.

IAMMAI by Anthropology of Design

Mai Albudoor’s background in art, architecture, interior and graphic design is evident in every one of her designs. Intricate pleating, simple colour blocking and clean silhouettes executed in a refined colour palette of black, white, nude and the deepest of reds, bring a structural attitude to her capsule collection. Inspired by the beauty of marble, the flat fronted cropped tops with shoulder seams and stiff satin trapeze dresses are timeless and futuristic classics all at the same time. ‘What marble and women have in common is their strength, resilience, grace and beauty,’ says Mai.

Mochi

The eye-popping woven patterns of a Mochi design have become a recognisable signature in the Middle East and beyond. Hand crafted by local artisans, the flowers, fringe and sheer girliness of dirndl skirts, summery cropped tops and embroidered capes bring a dose of happiness to the city. ‘For me being a part of the Harvey Nichols summer pop-up is a very special opportunity,’ designer Ayah Tabari tells MOJEH.com. ‘With my roots in Dubai I have always been a big fan of the department store and the brands it holds, so to be a part of this is quite something for me.’ As a celebration of homegrown talent, the pop-up collections as a whole demonstrate the design innovation right here on our doorsteps. ‘I think locally we are definitely behind the fashion capitals like Paris and London,’ notes Ayah. ‘But we are almost there with some recognised homegrown talent now making it in international markets. This is definitely helping in putting the Middle East on the radar of some of the key players in the industry.’

Zena Presley

Syrian-born Zena Presley launches her line with a collection of art-inspired multicultural prints that evoke the culture and vibrancy of Africa. Printed pencil skirts, capes and bustier dresses burst with colour, from the dark warmth of a sunset to the cloud mottled sky of a rural landscape. ‘It is an amazing opportunity to showcase my debut collection at Harvey Nichols Dubai,’ Zena tells MOJEH.com, ‘the chance to get the right exposure and be placed among the top regional and local brands is definitely a step in the right direction. It shows people’s appreciation for art and for unconventional pieces that tell a story.’ Based in Dubai and collaborating with artists from Europe to Africa to the US, the collection celebrates a global individualism, with fresh details popping out of each design at second glance. Who is the Zena Presley customer?  ‘I envision someone who loves to take risks and stand out, and uses fashion and clothing to express her individuality,’ says Zena. ‘Someone who appreciates the beauty and cultural impact of art, and who values the stories and emotions behind the pieces.’ If that sounds like you, these vivid little art attacks (which work brilliantly paired with monochrome separates) will provide a talking point for every Iftar celebration.

Faissal El-Malak

Another debut, this time for Palestinian-Canadian designer Faissal El-Malak, who was raised between Montreal and Doha and settled in Dubai last year. Yemeni artisanal techniques combine with the peaceful silhouettes of a kaftan, robe or shell top to add a folkloric feel that chimes with the bohemian movement that currently prevails in fashion. ‘I have always existed between the West and the East - both physically and mentally,’ says the designer. ‘I have developed my own pattern designs, but also used these pre-existing ever-evolving graphic textiles by adapting them to women's garments in a Middle Eastern context.’ Ever grounded in the Middle East – El-Malak recently spent three months in occupied Palestine exploring his ancestral homeland - his style combines ancient graphic textiles with abayas and kaftans but also modern western clothing. The Yemeni weavers from the hills of Dhamar have found a stylish new outlet for their age-old traditions.

Dee by Dalia

Fun, flirty and perfect for a long, hot summer, Dee By Dalia’s loose cotton separates and shoulder-exposing dresses bring a measure of cool refreshment to the fashion senses. Born and raised in the UAE and with Palestinian and Lebanese heritage, Dalia Ali knows a thing or two about style. Feminine with a carefree edge (Dalia is inspired by vintage pieces, butterflies and ballerinas), these are clothes that will make a seamless transition into your every day wardrobe. Tiny polka dots and the merest hint of a pinstripe add a clean, tailored finish to the collection, while an emerald green strapless gown with giant bow is evening wear for those who never try too hard.