Federico Poletti is well-versed in the production of runway shows. The Italian fashion commentator and editor of online magazine Man In Town published The Fashion Set last year, which takes an in-depth look at some of the most iconic runway sets of the last three decades. Here, he talks to us about the importance of the runway set.
Why do you think runway sets are so important?
Fashion shows excite us and make us dream. A good set catapults us physically into the fantastic world created by designers to tell their story. The atmosphere makes the experience unforgettable and is a way to communicate the meaning and inspiration of the clothes to as many people as possible, in a simple and immediate way. The best shows are a highly concentrated combination of theatre, emotion, explosiveness and often, good old-fashioned spectacle. A fashion show does not last more than 12-15 minutes, and in those short minutes everything from the lights, music and timing has to be coherent and coordinated.
Do you think elaborate or over-the-top sets distract from the clothes?
Colin Mc Dowell once wrote,“A rare jewel requires a beautiful setting." Which is true of a runway setting. It is really important for brands to utilise their sets as a form of communication. The set has to be balanced, while closely linked to the inspiration of the collection, it has the function of creating a frame to contextualising the clothes. A good set, no matter how elaborate, will not overpower the outfit, but instead they help the viewer to enter deeper and deeper into the world in which he or she is watching.
What are some of the most memorable shows you’ve ever attended and why?
Over the years, designers have literally transported us to the most varied situations. The Chanel autumn/winter14 supermarket is one of the most memorable for me. I'll never forget Louis Vuitton Express for autumn/winter12, during which a handsome one-carriage steam train, built especially for the show brought the models the models and porters into the venue. The show set transported the label back to its beginnings as a luggage company. Another fabulous and memorable fashion show was Fendi’s Great Wall of China in 2007, the atmosphere, the location, the light - everything was extremely magical. Chanel, Dior, Prada, Antonio Marras and Louis Vuitton shows always tend to be incredible.
