Rick Owens Autumn/Winter 2015
Bold beauty had a major moment this autumn/winter 2015. Designer’s were unabashed with their make-up choices as catwalks celebrated a plethora of inspirations from rebellion to romance. One thing was certain, this was a season where creativity reigned supreme and artisanal craft translated from the clothes to the canvas of the face.
By Christopher Prince
Oh, So Subtle
Anthony Vaccarello’s subtle stars
This season we saw a select few designers tread on the periphery of the outlandish with wearable alternative looks. Edging his way into such beauty terrains was Anthony Vaccarello, whose star-spangled show included models sporting pencil-drawn eye tattoos via Tom Pecheux in the most daintiest of ways. The focus on the eye also featured at Rochas, DKNY and Zero Maria Cornejo with liner used to define the lid in a whole manner of impressionist strokes.
Child’s Play
Haphazard beauty at Fashion East
Designer’s also took on an avant-garde approach to beauty this season as swirls and squiggles informed the fashion faces of Maison Margiela – whereby new creative director, John Galliano, introduced his familiar clownish aesthetic in collaboration with Pat McGrath. The new generation at Fashion East went leftfield with make-up haphazardly sketched on the face in comical cartoon-like formations. Jacquemus meanwhile proposed double-double with two-faced models sketched on with childlike portraits.
Dramatic Effect
A gold leaf Rick Owens muse
Daring to break the beauty status quo was Rick Owens, whose glamorous gilded faces via artist Lucia Pieroni perpetuated the designer’s primal hallmarks for autumn/winter 2015. It was a similar story at Gareth Pugh where warrior women pervaded the ideals of sacrifice with red crosses emblazoned across their faces. Vivienne Westwood was all for the scarlet shade as models paraded around to a punkish tune within a recreated ‘hell on earth‘ basement of Paris’ rue du 4 Septembre. Undercover‘s Jun Takahashi proposed his endless quest for eternal youth, riffing on plastic surgery as fresh faces sported creepy face masks down the runway.
