Under The Scope

Laura Beaney

2 min read

The skincare industry’s current state-of-play is polarised. At one end of the spectrum we see surplus superfood-based products with pared back ingredients and on the other, science-driven formulations are striking out, making bolder claims than ever before. Looking to science, one fascinating innovation readily lapped up by the beauty industry is stem cell research. Gaining momentum since 2011 and gradually making its way into a myriad of applications from treatments to serums, creams and cleansers, industry benchmarks like dermatologist, Sarah Chapman and beauty brands such as Stemology have based their entire conception around the transformative claims which surround stem cells.

With ongoing research expanding our understanding at an exponential rate, what we already know is that stem cell imparted products have the ability to naturally reverse the signs of ageing with results said to rival that of Botox. But do advancements in this field have the potential to bridge the gap between the beauty counter and professional cosmetic procedures?

Stem cells have long been a point of fascination for the medical industry with research into human stem cells in particular, marked as a game changer in the fight against disease. It’s important to emphasise, that in skincare, however, the vast majority of stem cells are taken from either plants or other animals rather than from humans. Plant stem cells are exceedingly potent and contain high levels of antioxidants. Research shows that when applied to the skin, collagen and elastin levels are rejuvenated, displaying similar activity to that of our young human stem cells.

“Stem cells are the last frontier in science,” says Julian Levy, managing director at Dr. LEVY Switzerland, skincare trailblazers that were the first to utilise ArganCDV, a plant-derived stem cell extract, that is a key ingredient among their premium skincare solutions. “Stem cells are the mother cells, the original source of our organs and tissue,” he continues. “Ageing, as well as many diseases, can be traced to these cells and when they get worn out they don’t regenerate, which is a principal cause of ageing. For the beauty industry, this means that the ability to directly target skin stem cells is the Holy Grail.” In short, our stem cells are the source of skin’s youth accounting for its radiance, firmness, thickness and elasticity, but when the cells become older they become less productive, leading to ageing with visible symptoms, such as loss of density, dull complexion, and wrinkles becoming more apparent. “Studies have shown that UV damage and pollution cause substantial decrease in stem cell production,” adds Dr. Maryam Zamani whose highly respected skincare range calls upon the ingredient for products such as her Restorative Placenta and Stem Cell Night Serum that contain ovine placenta and stem cells to reduce wrinkles, detoxify, strengthen and repair the skin. “Adult skin heals via an inflammatory response,” she continues, highlighting that the unique advantage plant stem cells offer is that they protect the longevity of our own skin stem cells while combating ageing.

Our understanding of the beauty benefits enhanced by plant stem cells is still at a nascent stage, continually upgrading as ongoing research continues to explore their capacity. “It’s a very exciting time for beauty and medicine in general,” says Levy. “True stem cells can produce new cells indefinitely and could be the elixir of youth, so you can expect to hear about stem cells for decades to come