With a focus on traditional techniques paired with technological innovation, Prada turns away from fragrance stereotypes with the light and airy Les Infusions De Prada Eau de Parfum collection. Daniela Andrier, the nose for the brand, talks exclusively to MOJEH about her journey into infusion.The six-fragrance collection captures the spirit of Prada, combining expensive raw ingredients with ordinary ones. Its creator infuses a signature, natural ingredient – either Iris, Iris Cèdre, Vetiver, Amande, Fleur d’Oranger, or Oeillet – with water in the traditional, French perfume-making process.
Naming the ‘world of watercolours’ and the idea of a ‘tattoo in water’ as her creative reference points, Andrier uses the ‘art of infusion’ as a starting point to explore and evoke memories with the imaginary concepts surrounding water dilution. Here, the Perfumer explains how she looked to old-fashioned ingredients and techniques during the blending process.
What was your initial idea with Prada for Les Infusions De Prada collection?
The idea was to further explore fragrances that evoke the custom of luxurious, old-world perfumeries and questions our memory of the past, while juxtaposing this with a new, unexpected and forward-looking world view of Prada.
From a chemical perspective, how did you go about creating space and lightness between the stronger notes in each of the fragrances?
All of the fragrances in the collections have something in common: I made a common base, which I call the spirit of Infusion. It is the perfect temperature of water in which to put the refined formula of the ingredients. By putting the formula in this watery surrounding, it allows the fragrance to come and go, to develop this sense of subtle airiness. And, of course, the notion of spirit of Infusion acts as the ideal metaphor for being infused in the spirit of Prada.
What are the key component ingredients of oeillet in the Les Infusions collection?
Sandalwood from Australia, styrax from Honduras, patchouli from Indonesia, mandarin essence from Italy, spices, and musk.
What are the key characteristics of oeillet?
Warm and cool, sensual and fresh. A refined infusion of spicy notes of carnation in a mandarin and sandalwood water.
Carnation is cultivated in many countries, but carnation absolute is produced only in the south of France. It possesses a floral spicy scent with pepper and clove nuance. Unfortunately, today many perfumers consider carnation to be an old-fashioned component, as current trends in fragrance dictate fresher notes. Yet, carnation remains an unavoidable component in oriental fragrances.