By Jemma Walker
We may be in the last leg of Paris Fashion Week but who better to inject a sense of flamboyant (and frightening) drama into the proceedings than John Galliano and his debut ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela.
It’s the show everybody has been talking about, and more still, the show most shrouded in secrecy. A small room with tight security. A meticulously structured seating arrangement. And a no-show from the guest of honour. Maison Margiela’s incumbent creative director, John Galliano, knows how to whip up a frenzy of interest. But rather than steal the thunder with his own theatrics, his return to the Paris ready-to-wear catwalks proved to be elusive, magnificent and double-edged.
Certainly, his AW15 show was full of 80s nostalgia, over-spilling with passion, creativity and innovation. Brimming with confidence, the designer is definitely back with a bang as he dared to send models down the catwalk in a frightful array of poses and shapes – frail and moody-faced, knock-kneed, bent-double and oozing with ephermeral intent. Delving into the deepest depths of his wild imagination and returning with a daring spectacle of a collection, this was a show that was part-mysterious, part-outrageous. Indeed, Margiela’s arresting new beauty look was one not to be underestimated, but was it stunning or was it scary?
There were two defining looks from the show, the most shocking being the overtly colourful make-up covering large portions of the face that breached the constraints of facial lines. Lipstick wasn’t restrained (much like the designer himself), branching out to cover the models’ visages, redrawing and redefining lip shapes and eye shapes. Although the look was dramatic with the very essence that one can only describe as ‘the Galliano way’, it captured in the unusual choice of vibrant colours and full coverage a unique look that may well be the antithesis of the key trends for autumn/winter. However, we certainly think elements of the look can be adopted, a bold red lip or a sharp eye shadow can bring spirit and daring to any wintery ensemble.
The second and more approachable look was backcombed crimped hair, an 80s-inspired hairstyle combined with oversized feathered eyeliner that’s a more subtle adaption for a wearable beauty routine. Opening the eyes with an outward angled flick following the lash line enlarges and highlights lashes – this is something we all need to try.
Admittedly, though elements of Galliano’s designs are impossibly wonderful (and a sign of things to come?) they were also a little scary, with words like ‘strange’ and ‘demented’ being bandied about after the show. Still, inspiration can be taken from these outrageous colour palettes and hairstyles. And, if you’re brave enough, you should experiment with this incredible look.
As for the man himself, despite prolonged cheers and handclapping at the end of the show, Galliano refused to appear. It was a classy move, at once bestowing respect on the elusive nature of the Maison Margiela brand as well as sending a statement of clear intent that his clothes, and his beauty, would do the talking for him.
