Haute Couture Fashion Week is usually a source of inspiration for next-level hair and makeup looks that, while they might not be apt for the 9-5, fuel the fire for beauty creativity. This year, our escape from the mundanity of everyday life feels more urgent than ever. MOJEH rounds up the trends that work both on and off the catwalk.
The embodiment of high-drama makeup, Pat McGrath took glitter to new heights this season, with hip-grazing hair paired with accents – and in some cases, entire faces – of iridescent glitter. “We’ve always seen glitter on clothes and fabrics,” says Dubai-based makeup artist Manuel Losada. “However, now designers are experimenting by using it on hands, faces and other parts of the body, too.” For a more wearable look, channel a pared-down Valentino vibe by wearing a smattering of sparkle in a diffuse C shape around eyes and temples, and keep the rest of the look natural with a groomed brow. “Glitter is ideal for enhancing your eyes,” adds Manuel. “Make sure your lids are perfectly smooth and clean before you start, then apply your chosen glitter all over your lid, blending it with your fingertips as you go.”
A trend loved for its wearability as much as its high-fashion status – which other look can you work straight from the beach to dinner? – the just-got-out-the-shower vibe is slicker than ever this season, and there’s much more to styling it than you might think. For his debut couture collection for Fendi, Kim Jones enlisted the help of hairstylist Sam McKnight to create various iterations on the likes of Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne and Lila Grace Moss. The best bit? They’re not solely reserved for the catwalk. “Start by making sure the hair is nice and clean and blow-dry it straight,” explains Cat Hawkes, artistic director and co-founder of Salon 971. “You’ll need a strong gel to comb back your hair, and for the 1920s finger wave, pull the hair with a fine-tooth comb towards the front of the head and then clip it, before pushing the hair in the opposite direction. Keep moving the comb in a zig-zag pattern, clipping the hair so it stays until it dries into that sectioning pattern.” Sleek yet oh-so-chic.
The red lip is back for summer, but not as you know it. “We’ve been bombarded with matte lipsticks over the last few years,” explains Manuel. “However, gloss is back in the spotlight this season, and this time with improved formulas that leave your lips plumped, hydrated and enhanced.” Lips took centre stage at Schiaparelli, with artistic director Daniel Roseberry teaming platinum hair, matching bleached-blonde eyebrows and flawless satin skin with rich pillar-box red lips pointedly angled at the Cupid’s bow. The key is making your pout the focal part of the look. “Use a sugar scrub on your lips to ensure they are soft before applying your product,” suggests Manuel. “Once applied, work around the edges with a cotton bud to soften the look, resulting in a more youthful appearance.”
There’s no better time to have fun with your makeup, and what better way than to experiment with colour? No-one knows this better than Viktor&Rolf, where minimalism was completely out the question. Makeup artist David Koppelaar conceptualised a playful look that complemented the line’s beautifully chaotic upcycled garments. “What I love about colour is that it can be used in so many different ways to break boundaries with your style,” explains Manuel. “To intensify the pigment, lightly wet your brush in water before applying to your lids or cheek, then softly blend.” Think bright blushers, techno-coloured lids and a vibrant hit of lipstick (we recommend working one at a time to avoid overkill).
Enchanting, ethereal and feminine, hair at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s haute couture SS21 collection for Dior was as mystical as the collection itself, with hairstylist Guido Palau’s elegant updos topped with raw crystal-studded crowns. Want to get the look at home? “Start by prepping your hair with a mousse, blow-drying it in to ensure you hair has a little texture,” explains Karl Warner, artistic director at Pastels Salon Ritz-Carlton. “Next, use a comb to create a centre parting and section the hair into four. Back-comb in front of the crown and around it, repeating on each section before bringing the two back sections into a smooth pony at the nape of your neck. Then bring the two front pieces back to cover the corners like a head band and attach them to the pony. Finish by rolling the pony tail up and under and secure with clips where needed. Voila!”
- Compiled by Naomi Chadderton