With new research showing half of all people suffer from at least one skin pigmentation issue, 2024 looks set to be the year we tackle dark spots once and for all. MOJEH investigates
Regardless of what you may see on social media or the cover of your favourite fashion magazine, it’s more common to have imperfect skin than not. Unlike certain bugbears like enlarged pores or under-eye circles, however, there are several skincare concerns that are much more difficult to tackle. Perhaps the most frustrating of the bunch? Hyperpigmentation.
According to a new worldwide study conducted by La Roche-Posay of L’Oréal Group, half of all people suffer from at least one kind of skin pigmentation, with a third of these experiencing lower quality of life as a result. Yet despite its prevalence, it’s an issue that has long been shrouded in mystery when it comes to prevention and cure. “Pigmentation refers to colouring of the skin, which is primarily determined by a pigment called melanin,” Dr Salma Abbarah, aesthetic doctor at Bella Derm Clinic in Jeddah tells MOJEH. “Excess melanin production results in hyperpigmentation, which can be damaging to the skin’s appearance and health, manifesting as dark spots, freckles or patches on the skin, detracting from its clarity and evenness.”
Damage caused by sun exposure is often considered the number one culprit for hyperpigmentation, also known as sun spots or solar lentigines. “It’s one of the primary triggers as UV radiation stimulates cells to produce more melanin in response to protect the skin,” explains Dr Abbarah. That’s not the only reason that pigmentary concerns are extremely common in the Middle East, though. “The severity of pigmentation can differ between individuals with different skin tones,” Dr Halah Taha, aesthetic medicine specialist and medical director of Dubai’s Ouronyx, tells MOJEH. “The Fitzpatrick skin type classification system categorises individuals into different groups based on their skin’s reaction to UV radiation. People with darker skin tones, such as those with Fitzpatrick type IV-V skin commonly found in Middle Eastern populations, often have higher reactivity to UV radiation and produce more melanin in response to sun exposure, which means they are more prone to developing pigmentation issues.” Add to that the fact that hyperpigmentation is even trickier to deal with on darker skin tones, as patches tend to emerge with a higher pigment and take a great deal longer to fade than on lighter complexions, and you have a perfect storm.
That said, sun exposure isn’t the only thing we need to watch out for — antibiotics, genetics and hormonal imbalances are also common triggers for pigmentation, with La Roche-Posay’s research also discovering that three in four women found their skin problems were present or even worsened during menstrual periods. “Hormones play a significant role in regulating melanin production,” explains Dr Taha. During pregnancy, for example, an increase in certain hormones such as oestrogen and progesterone can stimulate the overproduction of melanin, leading to the development of dark patches. “In addition to pregnancy, hormonal fluctuations associated with the use of birth control and hormone replacement therapy can also affect melanin production, potentially leading to increased pigmentation,” she adds.
As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure, yet preventing pigmentation entirely has so far proven to be a challenge. That said, while there are steps we can take to minimise its occurrence, including practicing diligent sun protection, that all might be set to change due to significant advancements in skincare products and ingredients including the launch of L’Oréal Group’s groundbreaking molecule Melasyl, designed to address localised pigmentation issues that lead to age spots and post-acne marks. Formulations containing the innovative ingredient are said to improve the appearance of existing dark spots, including persistent ones, with clinically demonstrated efficacy and safety across all skin tones. It has already been integrated into the formulation for La Roche-Posay’s MelaB3 franchise, including MelaB3 serum and MelaB3 SPF30, and will follow up with future product launches with L’Oréal Paris and Vichy.
There are several other skincare ingredients that have also shown efficacy, with topical solutions typically working to interrupt the cellular pathways where pigment is produced. First up is Vitamin C which, together with Vitamin E, can help reduce and protect the cells of the skin against future UV damage, while retinoids (Vitamin A) also work in a number of ways to reduce the production of melanin. “Niacinamide is also a hero ingredient when it comes to evening out skin tone and reducing the appearance of pigmentation,” adds Dr Taha. “Then we have tranexamic acid which is an emerging skincare ingredient in the arena. It works by interfering with the interaction between pigment- producing cells and the factors that stimulate melanin production.”
As with everything in skincare, how you use these ingredients is key, particularly when it comes to retinoids, which come in various strengths. While known for their anti-aging benefits and ability to promote cell turnover, experts recommend avoiding retinoic acid or Retin A if you have darker skin as it can make it very sun sensitive, worsening pigmentation in the process. Instead, look to kojic acid, azelaic acid, alpha arbutin and thiamidol, which controls excess pigment in the skin. With consistent use of skincare products containing pigmentation-reducing ingredients, some improvements may be noticeable within a few weeks to months, while for more stubborn or severe pigmentation, it might be time for professional treatments such as laser therapy or chemical peels. “In the Middle East, advancements in dermatology are rapidly transforming the landscape of pigmentation correction,” concludes Dr Abbarah. “With cutting-edge technologies and a multicultural population driving innovation, clinics in cities like Riyadh, Jeddah, Dubai and Abu Dhabi are increasingly offering tailored solutions for diverse skin types, with government support and stringent regulations fostering a promising future for anyone suffering.”
Treatments To Try
Glycolic Acid Peel
Peels are the most easily accessible treatment for all skin types, the most common being AHA peels at higher strengths to those performed at home. Glycolic acid peels, as well as mandelic and lactic acid, are often very beneficial at intermediate strengths when used repeatedly on the pigmentation of most skin types, with experts recommending one every four to six months for the best results. Available at Euromed Clinic, Dubai. Book now
Lumecca
An effective, non-invasive way to treat and reduce sun damage, brown spots, broken capillaries and irregular pigmentation on the face, neck and chest, Lumecca by InMode uses intense flashes of light that penetrate deep below the skin’s surface to break down pigment and target haemoglobin (for capillaries) and melanin-producing cells. Not only does it give consistently good results, but downtime is also minimal compared to other high energy systems. Available at Athena Dermatology Clinic, Dubai. Book now
NeoGen Plasma Skin Regeneration
Using nitrogen plasma technology to address various skin concerns, including hyperpigmentation and melasma, this non- surgical treatment works by emitting controlled pulses of plasma energy from a handheld device on to the skin’s surface, breaking down excess melanin in the skin and promoting the emergence of new skin cells with more even pigmentation, leading to a uniform skin tone. Available at Ouronyx, Dubai. Book now
