The show’s invite was a quirky eBay find, accompanied by a printed email-esque note. Adding a personal touch, the designer sent out a WhatsApp-like voice note ahead of the event, setting the tone for what was about to come.
The voice note said:
“As you know, I like to question things that matter to me through my work. And some of the questions I’ve been thinking about recently are, What is luxury? What is fashion and why does it even matter? Who do I do what I do for? Is fashion enough? In a world oversaturated by content, is anything ever enough?
What is enough? The important part is not necessarily finding answers, but the process of questioning themselves. Luxury is by definition a sort of scarcity, something that is not infinitely available. What seems to be truly rare and finite right now is actually creativity itself. I believe that creativity has secretly become a new form of luxury. I wanted this show to represent the link between the past and the future of Balenciaga as a house based on creative value. It starts with silhouettes and seems directly inspired by the legacy of Cristobal and evolves into further experimentation with the ideas that make up my body of work. The rethinking of the concept of beauty, the forging of an immediately recognizable style, and the consideration of how the body interacts with garments. This collection is about the aesthetic that I have been evolving in fashion for exactly 10 years now. It is about identifying with and belonging to this aesthetic. It is also about the fashion that matters to me.”
Demna raised pertinent questions about content saturation in our world and what truly suffices. The show unfolded in the historic Les Invalides, against a backdrop of screens that tracked the day from dawn to dusk, juxtaposing natural and electronic landscapes. The entrance’s simulated daylight transition and Demna’s presentation urged us to face reality.
As the show evolved, the visuals oscillated between the real and the synthetic, blurring lines with a mix of editing, content sharing, and scrolling that became increasingly immersive, thanks to a soundtrack by Bfrnd filled with high-energy beats, entrancing melodies, and intense vocal synths.
On the runway, we saw a nod to Balenciaga’s shapes with dresses featuring distinctive hip outlet constructions, shoulder pads sewn into the hips. The collection was a mix of the avant-garde and the familiar: maxi fake fur coats aged with resin, raw-cut hems, fluid deconstructed tailoring, and new leather pieces adorned with Balenciaga label and ‘trompe l’oeil brooches. Standouts included frozen draped dresses and suspended garments crafted from repurposed wardrobe staples.
The clothes, still tagged and creased as if recently purchased and unworn, alongside the thrifting phenomenon and TikTok’s portrayal of fashion, were laid bare. Demna encapsulated this in a show that embraced and scrutinised our content-driven reality.
The lineup also featured all-purpose zip-up hoodies with matching pants, outerwear lined with leather, and coordinated bomber and puffer jackets and skirts. “La Vareuse” tops, inspired by an original Balenciaga piece, were reimagined from inverted trousers, while parkas were elongated into coats, and multi-waistband pants showcased the brand’s playful take on utility.
Notably, a dress fashioned from three hoodies, with the lowermost inverted for a mermaid tail effect, offered a modern take on Balenciaga’s iconic bubble dress, while lingerie repurposed into gowns challenged traditional luxury, embodying the spirit of an inventive upcycling project.
Accessories brought a touch of levity, with face shield eyewear and beanies pulled over the head which the show notes explained still allowed for visibility. The oversized leather bags, hands-free phone holders, and expanded rodeo line are set to make the cash registers ring. The collection’s footwear ranged from deconstructed derby shoes to knee-high boots, all echoing the mixed material and color motifs seen throughout the show.
Within the diverse collection, certain pieces, such as gowns fashioned from hoodies or repurposed lingerie, presented an inventive take on material reuse, sparking a dialogue about the essence of luxury. Demna’s intent, aligned with the theme of creatively repurposing eBay finds, invites reflection on the significance of luxury in today’s world.
The collection’s exploration of an ‘upcycled’ aesthetic, though not derived from actual upcycling, adds another layer to the conversation, challenging our perceptions of authenticity and value in fashion. The show was a dynamic fusion of ideas, with some designs exemplifying innovation and others teetering on the edge of extravagance, encouraging us to consider where innovation ends and excess begins in the realm of high fashion. Demna’s distinctive approach continues to push boundaries and provoke thought, maintaining his reputation for stirring the pot in the fashion industry.
