By Jemma Walker
Fashion Forward Season Five is here and with the removal of elevated runways, a venue makeover and daring collections, it’s the most successful yet. The Middle East’s most stylish spent their weekend previewing the autumn/winter trends while team MOJEH took the front row to bring you all the fashion updates.
Ezra
Ezra Santos conquered Fashion Forward with an unforgettable opening show that marked the beginning of the three-day event giving homage to some of the Middle East’s most talented designers.
The story began with a plethora of blush-pink couture gowns gliding down the Ezra runway, met with applause from the audience; the enchanting collection was rife with ballet-like elements from the very beginning. Inspired by the Spanish colonisation of Ezra’s native Philippines, the extent of Spanish influence in this fairytale was outlined early in the show, as a male model took to the runway in jodhpurs and a strong laser-cut jacket in true matador style – prompting whispers of forthcoming drama from the FROW. Followed by jacquard-detailed dresses, intricate beading and embellishment, it wasn’t long before the audience was brought to their feet by the closing act. Models wearing Ezra’s trademark gowns took to the runway for their final farewell before gracefully falling to the ground, laying in the waterfall created by their gowns, the matador again returned (alongside the remaining models) to help the fallen princesses – much to the audience’s glee as Ezra Santos received a standing ovation that outlived the lights.
The Emperor 1688
The Emperor 1688 shocked us with an all-womenswear show, taking the plunge the brothers emerged victorious as contemporary tailoring and origami hats helped redefine ‘the Empress’.
The darkened room was dimly lit with grumbling storm clouds quieting the attendees, as the first ensemble of the 26-piece collection came into sight, it wasn’t until the model was mid-runway that the bright lights appeared and the array of modern military tailoring began. The positioning of zips and buttons added structure to the unique designs – a hybrid of feminine capes and dresses mixed with utilitarian shapes. From the very beginning it was a beautiful mix of masculine monochromatic strength and feminine allure. The brothers behind the brand, Babak, Haman and Farhan Golkar brought fur, highlighted waists, silk-flowing dresses and structure to Fashion Forward with their model army – it’s clear why the brand’s womenswear collection is becoming increasingly popular. A signature design for AW15 is the felt military hats decorated with a subtle bow that graced the head of every model, alongside The Emperor 1688’s alternative to the spring/summer trend of lace-up heels – knee-length leather caged heels also adorned with black bows – winter is all about wearable tailoring with a twist.
Hâshé
You can never anticipate what Iranian designer Ava Hashemi has hidden backstage, with her spring/summer collection boasting bright colours in exaggerated shapes, autumn/winter is full of sharp monochrome tailoring – it’s time for the tuxedo.
The Tailoring explored flirty femininity in true Hâshé-style, tuxedo dresses slipped off the shoulder, dip-hem shirt-dresses highlighted the waist and bird-prints hid in the pleats of skirts. A few select models wore numerous pieces during the show, with some layering coats and peplum skirts over already seen designs to explore the versatile wearability of Ava’s imagination. Made with the modern woman in mind, the simple palette of black, grey and white was injected with citrus elements for the perfect wintery statement.
Dima Ayad
Real designs for real women, autumn/winter is all about textures, fringing and movement according to Lebanese designer Dima Ayad – and we couldn’t be more enticed.
The young designer incorporated fringing into almost every piece that took to the runway – whether it hugged the bottom of tuxedo jackets, created peplum waists or covered spiderweb dresses – it added personality to Dima Ayad’s already elegant designs. Combined with the rich palette of red, black and white, you can’t deny texture was the star of the show. The fluidity and movement in every piece celebrated the feminine form; Dima Ayad stays true to her motto with a collection highlighting silhouettes. Autumn/winter marks the brand’s progression into eveningwear and the grown up, elegant stance is one we can’t help but love.
